Bespoke Linen Masterpiece: My New Suit from Kent Haste & Lachter | First Fitting | Kirby Allison

Hi I'm Kirby Allison and I'm excited to Be back here in London on Sackville Street right outside Taylor's Kent haste And laughter one of the greatest joys of The bespoke process is the relationship One is able to develop with their tailor So it is particularly exciting to see This second piece from Terry Hayes come Together and to be able to add a shirt From Stephen lachter so joining as I Step inside kit hasten laughter for the Second fitting of a bespoke linen suit And the first fitting of my shirt from Steven [Music] Thank you [Music] Thank you Terry You guys you just can't seem to get away From all the construction can you who's This Who's this I don't have my calling card on can you Believe it it's a nightmare is it yeah So great to see you again I mean you Know twice in two months I mean for an American this is a rare privilege you'll Be moving here so yeah so you're on a New board I mean oh that's a move down Yeah well you're at the end yeah One step closer to the door right is That Samba is that right [Laughter]

[Music] Well this is I guess how it works You know Um wow well I mean you just finished the Construction for the restaurant next Door oh no and now they've got a massive Project across the street and I'm sure Next thing you know they'll be coming Knocking on the door raising rents Raising rights I probably wouldn't think The basement that's right yes Um so anyway as we have the jackhammer Well yeah they've got a waterboard Starting this week as well not digging The road up again they're gonna dig the Road up did they do it last time you I Haven't had so much construction you Know exactly I can hardly keep track of It all Um yeah building site isn't it yeah any Updates from John how's John doing nice I'm feeling a lot better now okay Hopefully once he turns a corner well You know let us know whenever we can get The wheelbarrow and roll them in Um you know it was uh you know we'd love To get them on camera again it's really You know get some proper stories out of Them you know yeah it'd be nice for him To come back actually that Legend yeah Well I have to say I mean the suit of Course that he and you did are amazing Looking forward to those recent video We've got something with Stephen in

Store so I guess you guys will you Gentlemen have to rock paper scissors in Terms of who goes first and how we do This I think Stephen nice to see you Yeah young Lecter yeah First yes it was pleasure start with Stephen first yeah okay I'll put the shirt on and can I try them On with your trousers I think it's Probably best that way you can yeah slip A jacket on and got the whole thing Going then I think they'll work together Yeah Thank you [Music] Foreign [Music] Again we couldn't have planned this Better I mean let's Can we have the braces off yep sure yeah They're gonna fully on anyway that's it Okay let's have a look I mean it is an absolutely beautiful how Do you feel well it feels comfortable I Mean the fabric is beautiful yeah it's Roughly right go like that for me that's Good jelly good under the sleeves are Okay right let's get the collar Have you put a weight lost weight since I saw you there's no telling It's been I haven't run any marathons Since the last time we saw each other so You know you're doing way better than John and Terry were the first time

You'll meet me on the way there So you put white on Stephen yeah You know how do you feel good yeah yeah I mean I like it I mean it'll shrink a Little bit it will do and it's received About quarter of an inch yeah I just Want to What are you checking your job Just here I just wanna Get that down a little bit that's not a Problem That's funny Central lines five you're happy with the Size yeah I mean I think as I've been in My wisdom right I've come to really Appreciate the version a little bit more Room yeah I mean I can if you won I mean Maybe a little bit out of the put a Couple of back dancing the thing is You're Hollow in the back you can take It out the side seams but you're taking It all the way out because you've got to Follow a line whereas a couple of back Dots small back dots will take away from The hollow of the back so you won't have To you know you won't have to actually Try and sculpture the back I probably would throw in some darts Yeah just I mean you think it would Clean it up as it is it will do I mean I Do have quite a hollow back you are You're Hollow back so if I put a couple Of back belts in it'll just take away The excess cloth okay and also if you're

Ever putting them away which of course You wouldn't do so never never you can Always undo the back dots yeah oh can You yeah really I didn't know that yeah Because I mean with the with the shirt There's very few alterations that you Can make you can't do make too much That's what I'm looking about it I mean Sleeve length maybe there's a little bit Of fabric here but even this has got Such a tight seem that was really well Done drop yeah drop your arms that's why I asked you to go like that because You're going to get a little bit of Shrinkage on that yeah so so I wouldn't I wouldn't alter the sleeves actually You should find Yeah I definitely I just think taking This away a bit all right color shape Yeah I mean what do you think of the Color that's good I mean collar shape Right yeah I mean I'm interested in your Eye as a shirt maker I mean my My job is to make it sit nicely that's The most important thing and it's Sitting it's sitting nicely yeah and the Shoulders are nice because you've got You're similar to me you're quite Sloping yeah you know as a sure maker That's been doing this for a long time If you have in your mind certain color Types for certain faces yes yeah first Of all you've got quite a long neck so You can't have a small collar the

Smaller the collar it's going to Accentuate your look You've got I put in a little bit of a Slightly deeper band there okay so yeah So the height of the band is a little Bit higher than probably a ready to wear Shirt so it just stands on you a little Bit more I mean obviously you can make Make a collar as deep as you want but I Wouldn't I wouldn't I think that looks Quite a solid color for your for your Shoulder line yeah I wouldn't have too Much of a cutaway because of the Cutaway Because it don't worry about that Because I'm once I do this that will all Come up okay that's not a problem Yeah and then you know nice nice arms Hole I don't I don't think I don't think You take it in anymore yeah because if I Do Move your arms forward yeah you're going To hit it yeah no you've got with the Shirt you've got to have A little bit of room there Now what about the sleeve cuffs I mean I Think that this is this is very personal A little bit large yep So I'd maybe take a quarter take a Quarter off yeah a quarter off of this One because this is really the only Watch I wear right okay that's fine and Then this one I'd say maybe A half Let me see

How tight do you like them do you like Them fairly tight you know I'm not tight But not You know not loose I guess a 3 8. yeah Can you pin it I mean 3 8 sounds like it 3 8 so that's not a half right so that's Yeah just just under a half so it's a Little bit over a quarter Yeah so definitely not half an inch Cool what happens now is I look very Professional and I stick it right Through me right through your thumb yeah Oh I mean I like that I think that we'd do a quarter yeah Instead of three eighths yeah right That's just a quarter Because we will have a little bit of Shrinkage won't we yeah you will because The coffee's cups yeah Upwards okay that's the only way a shirt Shrinks it should never shrink inwards The body shrinks They then you've got a problem with the Cloth okay so it only shrinks it shrinks It shrinks this part of the cup the Sleeve strings that's why your sleeves Get a little bit shorter and the cuff Is cut that way so it will get slightly Sure The way that the fabric is woven is the Straps run vertically that's the entire Length of the that's right yep okay Um what else do you check for I mean you

Know again as a shirt maker when I check Is that the one thing that you don't You wait a little bit for the customer To relax which you've now done Takes his time to settle back in yeah Not why With the shirt I hate Doing anything with a pencil or a pen Do it with a do it with where you you Drop slightly more so that one that Right side will match up with that okay That left side Once it ties on you get it you get it Nice and clean You can make it like the paper on the Wall but the thing is with the shirt you Won't be able to move in it I can make It fantastic yeah but if you can't move In it it won't be comfortable it's not Comfortable yeah you won't be able to Work in it you won't be able to be Comfortable in it And you've got to be able to you know Last an entire years you've got a cycle Of weight gain and loss yeah yeah quiet You've got to I mean I never do that Yeah Not since I've started coming to Ken Hayes and it was too tough on me She tries to be tough on me but I sleep Diet shakes in the mail with my last uh Shipment they didn't work apparently Okay yeah yeah I mean it's a beautiful Fabric it's very soft fantastic so how I

Mean this is a I like this stripe I mean Can I wear this shirt like with is it Would you say I can keep this right I Mean would you or would you recommend Remaking it given the changes that yeah I could do the alterations I mean the Alteration that I'm very pleased because They're very minor okay The shirt can be can be worn but I would Like to do the alterations yeah Definitely I like to you know I mean It's a beautiful fabric and I think you Know although we didn't plan it I'd like To say we did it it works great yeah it Works it really is it's it's a freshness Yeah it's a nice fresh color yeah it Goes very well with the suit well once We put the Jack down there the parts Start really arguing about sleeve length Oh yeah yeah Now Terry I think we might be we might Be nearly ready for you you're ready Yeah Steven's quite efficient I mean his Work's done Nothing like fitting you know working With you guys well I do yeah I'll let the junior that you ordered a Pink suit or a pink shirt and this is Blue stripe blue stripes you know pink Would work you know we had braces and Then we took them off so yeah but I did Use two of your pins three pounds each Thank you yeah that'll be that'll be uh Inflation from your pay uh these are

Braces too thank you Terry I was looking For that word Here yeah they're I think a little bit High you'll be singing much higher time If you put them on there Is this how you reset them every time as Uh you know that's what I said we get Our own back and make them feel like You've been fitting children no just me We we pull them up the tightness to see Ya as soon as your voice changes yeah You know you've got the proper height Pleased with them do they feel Comfortable in the waist yeah I mean Again one of the things I feel like I'm Getting used to right is just the Confidence that you know you really if You have a a pair of highways to trouser Cut for braces you really yeah you need The room you need the room and that's What gives the comfort so yeah I think This is perfect great I mean I don't Know if you'd put more room in Um I'm doing any more room dude it'll just Float if you do look at that I mean Again look at the beauty Pizza hanging Perfectly aren't they just changed isn't It she got one right you know the drape And the I mean do you do a slightly Larger waistband because I mean I like This has again a nice kind of visual Presence probably not with braces Probably with straight top trousers we

Might do a bigger waistband but this Seems less larger than some of Myler no That's inch and a half maybe you've got An inch and a quarter as your usual you May have had inch and a quarter in the Past I mean not from about referencing Your suits right I'm just getting other Pursuits I have this has a little bit of A strawberry visual Presence which I like You guys are staring at each other now I don't know what no because you could Have one that high yeah Mine's just canvased yeah I like it the Double pleats and then we did slightly Stronger turnips yeah yeah the two Inches which turned up so really nice And the braces and the shirt and the Trousers I think oh yes lovely colors it Goes really well with it doesn't it what Do you think about the shoes I mean Maybe the shoes are a little dark Depends where you wear it really if You're going to wear it in town you Could get away with that quite easy but If you were gonna Wear it casual to a party or something Then that'll just be too strong what Type of shoes would you have made for a Suit like this suede suede yeah what Color brown brown would like what kind Of brown slightly lighter lighter well Lighter than what you're wearing it yeah I wouldn't go too light because it was a

Bit so like a chocolate brown or yeah Just like What about pigskin would you do pigskin Pig skin would be nice yeah yeah but Sort of Yeah there you go okay that color yeah That's where I was going yeah Great shoes very very old cleverly yeah I mean you can see the uh yeah shiny uh How much you polished the uh insole over The sock over time well seriously old Yeah like me thank you able on eBay last Week Yeah They feel comfortable yeah you've got Enough room in the forks and everything Does that mean I can have a pay rise Mistakes You had one ten years ago you've only Been here five years how does that work Oh no it's me oh yeah Sounds about right I've got a lot to look up to now haven't I you've got yours right Steve's got his Right Oh the pressure We've got the peanut gallery right here The jury pool Look at this wow this is great Pen I've got my own thank you I come Well prepared today Unlike Mr lecturer who'd nicked all our Pets that's right Any chalk

I thought I didn't but John didn't take All the pins with him when he left have You still has he left anything for you He's got our shoe hold no Are you watching this candy well I'm Sure you're holding back Okay right I gave you a bit more across the back Last time because obviously this doesn't Give like a normal wall gives but I Think I'm in the shapings I'm going to Leave that bit there I think you need it But we went Center vent on this one just To be slightly different I think it works quite well how do you Feel yeah do you like the three button Yeah I like the I mean one of the things You were saying about Lenin is that you Know as it's worn the Royal will it will Go right right so like right now it's Quite High yeah right but over time and Once the Garment has an opportunity to Kind of relax a little bit once it's Finished it will probably end up going Down to there I think that's nice do you Want me to bring the buttons down a bit Then if you feel that's a little well I Like the idea of It kind of rolling Through really through or at least Towards yeah because I wouldn't button This top one no no we're only really Button this yeah so I like the idea of It kind of beginning just rolling Through I don't need to roll completely

Through it because you could put the Button right here and you see that in Sound three World twos is too much but Yeah I like the idea of it just Slowly softly roll through that's what The aim is going to be so we just got it Pressed up and once you've worn it a Couple of times that really will just go Through about an inch and a half through The button let's get beautiful structure Nice isn't it makes up really well can We pull this off and see the packet What is that by the way that's the Hanger yeah a little hang Tang yeah so We don't lose them they always put them There They really sell them on don't they they Said scissors pocket knife blade Switchblade always at least two Gene Snips Terry Yeah I think it needs Snips on this one She's ready starting on Yeah well no one's Tearing that out double knotted just Tear a hole in it I always get nervous taking You know the little tag off my socks You can't rush it like you really do Have to pick it a lot of times you see People cut holes in Yeah I like it I mean talk to me a little bit About the pocket I mean it's an Interesting

And then we went for patch pockets on This one just to give you something a Little bit different but you know There's a shape to this where it's yeah It's not it's not like an Italian no no I was going to say the Italian ones are Really rounded aren't they this is an English so it's slightly you can't be The same I mean I was sucking Italian Money the other day and it was actually Scooped at the front as well I didn't Quite like that one but I don't mind the Really round ones but we gave you that Real English look which I think is what We were aiming for and it's patch Pockets but no Bellows or anything so Again quite no no we didn't want them Yeah we just kept it nice and simple And we decided to go with Roping on the shoulders but nothing yeah Not too big a rope no it's just a slight Rope yeah now getting back to the Awkward thing What do you think about sleeves I think The right one's perfect so do I and that One's a touch LOL yeah is that young Mr Lecter's shirt those let me see yeah Well this is This is the beauty of having your shirt Maker and Taylor all on the same Premises as they can have these fights Out In real time I'm not sure it's exactly The same place it's definitely the

Jacket Samba well you're seeing as Terry pays My wages That's the touch we'll shorten that yeah The stitching we're going to stitch on The edge you don't want it swelled do You where it's stuck stitched no three Eight so keep it nice yes on the edge as Far as you know I do you know really Tone on tone yeah I mean not contrasting Stitching no no no no so I did that once From Italy I went to an Italian tailor And this is you know the Italians he was A Neapolitan tailor for one he made my Trousers with a full button fly it was Like 14 buttons to actually get to the Bathroom which I know I would have said That you know I okay with buttons but Not the fly because I don't have this but then he also made It with belt loops and I he was like no He ordered below since I haven't worn Trousers with belt loops since College I'm quite certain I did not put belt Loops on this and then he he didn't just Swell it but it was double pick stitched And like a contrasting dark brown and I Was like I was like why didn't we talk about this I mean at that point like what do you do It's like but a lot of Italians do Double prick stitches I was okay with The double pick stitch right but it was The contrasting like I mean you looked

At it it was a pig Stitch or like a Saddle Stitch where it was quite big Stitches you could see yeah it was quite Large Yeah because they do it on the pockets You know the Italians they give you what Uh what they give you now what you want Yeah there's a nice jacket the other Thing there was no proper room and so I Mean You know I haven't even tried to I've Given it to Nathaniel already Daniel's 10. you know Right let's just have a look Yeah it's not Stephanie the jacket I'll Let him off on this one thank you Yeah well blame the company pretty much There's shoulder Wick spine isn't it we Narrowed it down a touch last time Um how's the map good the back is I mean The back's looking really nice the vent Is hitting exactly where it should be on The mark stitches Um as I said I've left you a little bit Of room there which you really need with This right but it's a nice thing I mean There's a little bit I mean I don't know is that just Lyndon What's that Like is that right uh no you've not Waste not been finished or pressed up Right yeah once that gets pressed off That'll be I mean even this the pitch of the

Sleeves yeah the pitch is really good Yeah I mean you're gonna unfortunately You're gonna get all that anyway because It's just you only have to move in the Studio This is gorgeous and this shirt I mean I We must have spoken about it because This I feel like pattern Works Beautifully with this doesn't it yeah What do you think of the uh the collar That he made yeah I yeah look I'm a Spread collar man I love a spray collar For me I don't like that color but each To their own really yeah it is I think It works I mean it really comes under The well that's the important it works Really well once you've raised it up Alignment that's just like that yeah Exactly definitely I made a mistake I joined yeah So I think this really speaks to the Virtues of You know kind of the relationship with Your tailor I mean one we were able to Integrate Stephen right so we've now got The shirt baking you know as part of This but then also like the second in Third commissions you know do get better It just gets easier and easier doesn't It once you get used to it yeah I mean And also you get used to each other so Yeah cool and one of the things that I Really appreciate is the fact you really You know kind of prescribed to this to

Me also yeah it's what I love I've made It quite this style for quite a long Time it looks really nice it's a little Bit different now yeah you know most People think oh three buttons yeah Rather than the three Button as you said Rolls right through the Italian type Which is really just a two button oh you Know again what I like is that you've Got an entire lifetime of experience Yeah drawn in terms of seeing you know Not just an incredible amount of things Having been made for an incredible Variety of people yeah but you know also Through multiple Decades of kind of Style coming in and out and so I think It just gives an eye right and then to Be able to draw on that knowing me to Make recommendations I think makes this Exceptionally special exactly I mean I Wouldn't do that design in a striped Suit or yeah one you had from John that That's I think probably for that it's a Little old-fashioned but yeah this I Think it's just a little bit different Okay anything else any other thoughts no I think we're there really aren't we We'll just do the finishing and I mean How much is left I mean this is just a Sewing out now I mean so the first suit That we did how many fittings did we Have it was three three yeah and this Will be effectively two yeah right I Mean you next one would be one fitting

Yeah yes that's right and then when you Finish the buttonholes and everything You take it straight through yeah yeah Because we're there now we just really Just got shortened that one sleeve just To make them the same yeah it's got this Amber stamp of approval it does you look Radiant sir well thank you anything Would change Yeah it's great yeah I mean you out to Yourselves brilliant I mean great that's Uh finish next week you're the best Dressed people I know in London I'll Share one thing in common it's that they Come here and allow you to take care of It and suffer through you guys Um gosh this is great I'm so excited and You know again I don't have anything Like it No I have a Navy linen yeah Double-breasted which I think you may Have seen But as you spoke about last Time the Navy is really beginning to Fade I go why here yeah and along the Edges yeah and it gives the cloth a nice Kind of patina kind of like threadberry Right but you know it's starting to Lose the vibrancy of the Navy whenever I First saw it yeah because it's it's in Itself It's peace diet so that's where the Color just rubs off it doesn't it thank You there we go thank you very much There we go it's it's like I just want

To linger but I know that you guys have A lot of work Thank you [Music] Wow uh what a piece I mean Terry Hayes Really outdoes himself Stephen lachter With the shirt and then of course Samba And doing an absolutely exceptional job This piece I have to say that came Together really quickly and really Speaks to just the skill of these Tailors and being able to anticipate see And recommend items I mean this is that Bespoke relationship really at its best And once you find tailors that you just Have good chemistry with you get along With it's fun you're able to joke around This is whenever it really is taken to The next level if you're watching for The first time the best way to support The content we film on this channel is By visiting Kirby allison.com there You'll find the largest collection of Luxury Garmin Karen luxury shoe care Accessories in the world as well as Other great clothing accessories for the Dwell dress like this beautiful necktie Braces and so much more of course I'm Kirby Allison here in London and as you All know I love to help the well-dressed Acquire and care for their wardrobes While exploring the war world of quality And craftsmanship and tradition thanks For watching

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