Gentlemen’s Day Out In Paris | Kirby Allison & Julien De Luca

Foreign [Music] So after nearly two and a half years of Covet Exile in Texas I couldn't tell you How excited I am to finally be back in One of my favorite places in the world Paris this is a truly beautiful city and Is one of the best places on Earth for The well-dressed gentleman quite Different from London and some very Unique and interesting ways to celebrate This occasion I thought it would be fun To have another gentleman's day out this Time with my good friend Julian DeLuca a Preeminent Parisian bespoke tailoring House comps De Luca so we're going to Meet up one of my favorite Corners here In Paris and take a nice walk together [Music] Julian hi Cody how are you so great to See you nice to see you it's so great to Finally be back in Paris and gosh it's Really hard to believe just how long It's been it has yeah I haven't seen you For a while you know kovitz been a Little bit of a Time Warp uh yeah Nowadays some ways it slowed things down In other ways has kind of stretched it Out but it's great to be back it's even A better occasion to see you that's Right meet tough and yeah discuss Everything that's changed in Paris yeah Absolutely I mean you know what's Interesting is that you know I've had

The opportunity to travel back to London A few times you know since it opened up In October and uh you know being back in Paris has really reminded me how the Style here in menswear really is subtly Different than that of London so I Thought it'd be fun to kind of walk Around see some of the places that I've Missed you know seeing after so long I'll check around and show you a little Bit Paris yeah so here we are room our Buff the Champs Elise and this is Actually one of the most famous streets For menswear in Paris right so there's a Few Taylors it's Not like in London where you have quite A lot on Cyber road yeah but you have a Few here and uh I'll gladly show you Around yeah well shall we shall we Foreign So cubby this is a remarkable where you Have quite a few Brands here for bespoke Tailoring and shoes you have here Chiffonelli across the street we have Baruti and a little bit further up we Have small too oh yes okay so I mean the Chief finale and reluti I mean two Iconic kind of Parisian Brands one of The things I like about each of them is That in many ways it kind of helped in Some ways reshape Parisian style right For menswear I mean cheap and Ellie you Know being slightly more How would you say it adventurous and

It's tailoring with its Italian History Tiffany is one of the last few family Houses that still do bespoke in Paris Yeah I think he and you are two of the Only ones that exist now indeed yes not A few left in Paris and uh very proud of Continuing the artwork and the and the Savoir Fair here in Paris yeah and uh I Mean you know despite you know really Being competitors I mean you and the Chip and Ellis I mean have quite a close And well respected relationship good Friends with Lorenzo and Massimo so it's Not good good respect for one another Yes no it's that's the the only way to To do things it's to be respectful and And we exchange on on the artwork and The artisanship which is important Absolutely I mean over you know last few Years has that become more difficult Because you know so much of the bespoke Process is relying upon skilled Craftspeople Well we we've been At least that comes to look at we've Been trying to really get the people to Learn and In the process of having youngsters to To come into the craft which is Important to maintain the craft yeah so The the style I mean the men's worst how The way the men's dress in Paris is Subtly but still significantly quite Different than what you find in London

Indeed yes I mean I myself you know if I'm traveling to Paris and London uh or Should I say if I'm traveling to London In Paris you know really pack two Separate wardrobes I've got my slightly More conservative wardrobe for London I've got black shoes darker suits Heavier Fabrics but then if I'm in Paris I've got something like this you know Dorme I always bring brown shoes which I Never wear in London how is this Reflected in the tailoring style though I think uh it is reflected as well into The structuring of the jackets we do Here in Paris compared to it to London And is it's the halfway house between England and Italy okay in terms of style In terms of structure which is very Important to really differentiate uh Between the deserts yeah yeah Interesting and then of course you know Berluti [Music] So here we're coming up to Belushi one Of the very famous French brand for shoe Wears which was started with the Olga Baloutier which really introduced the Um patina on the on the on the shoes for Men and the design which was very Different to the English Is incredibly iconic and you know one of The things I mean just talking about Kind of the difference and the subtle Differences of Parisian Style versus

English style if you can call English Dressing style right Um is the Footwear I mean it's much more Adventurous I mean you see more men Wearing loafers you see men wearing Loafers without socks you see really Aggressive and interesting patinas I Mean even something simple as just a Brown pair of shoes which I honestly Would never wear in London but here in Paris I really can't imagine myself Wearing black That because it's a little bit less Formal which allows you to to as well With the Wardrobe to have something a Little bit more different and less Conventional shall we say yeah for sure Where do you think that that comes from I mean what's the history there is it Has I mean Paris always just weather the Weather I guess it all goes back to the Weather right Explain so much about the Italians sure Very true much more colorful much Lighter in terms of structure as well Yeah one of the other interesting things About berluti is we did a bespoke Workshop tour and so the bespoke Workshop is literally just right across The street Um I think on the second or third level And again all done right here on Aruba Yes indeed and they have another very Big

Special delivery And yes they have a very big Workshop as Well not too far from the iglesi okay It's a beautiful place to go and see as Well yeah and that's where they do a lot Of them bespoke as well yeah I mean one Of the things that strikes me is you Know in London you've got the arcades You've got Savile Row and you certainly Have some really large and iconic Tailoring houses and other kind of Institutions but in Paris there's so Much diversity and in the number of Small shops like even what we have right Here I think in many ways is eclipses That have even London yeah I think They're much bigger Brands and in Paris I think they're much more smaller Artisans which are really trying to Develop the craft in each of their Fields yeah which is varying absolutely I mean we see it in sunglasses we see it In Footwear I mean I think that again Going back to Footwear not to talk too Much about that but subject near and Dear to my heart is you know in London Of course you've got you know gaziano Girling John lob Um you know you've got Foster inside Hands and then cleverly I mean those are Probably the Big Four Uh you know in Paris I think there's Even more bespoke shoemaking companies I Mean you've got Felipe tinza you have

Dimitri Gomez you have John lab Paris Yes you've got verluti uh and then There's um you know even some other kind Of small smaller shops that I I can't Even think of right here yes yeah that's Interesting Thank you So walking up here we have a few other Brands that we should mention is uh Smaltos Lee and you have a shop here Which says atolini Jacques Very nice yeah they were just acquired Byram they have part of it has been Quite AMS the part of it is still Independent but most of the Atelier has Been put by Ms to do all the leather Jackets and they have been enormous but This is an interesting example of Something that I found unique to Shopping in Paris is that this is a Completely nandescript little store easy To walk by and think that just because It's you know 10 feet wide it must not Be very important but you've got italini Which is one of the you know highest of The Italian bespoke suit makers and Ready to wear and made to measure really Made the measure more than anything else You've got Jacob Cohen which is doing Dinner right that's really interesting Denim and then you've got seraphim and Which as far as leather jackets are Concerned is the the oat Cuisine of the Of the genre and you'd walk by that 10

Times and really not think anything Other Here we are coming up to the crossing of Uh Where you have uh which is in a historic Brand Mr Smith Started working in Paris at my Grandfather's shop did he really and he Set up shop here in Paris as well yeah Just after the war and he really was a Great designer and a great tailor as Well based in Paris yeah it's Interesting the design influence I mean Couture for women's wear always paying Of course base here in Paris couldn't Help but have influence on menswear It's true very true because back in the 50s my grandfather and a few other Taylors in Paris actually did okochiro De filet and they were really presenting The new collections to the Parisian Cayontel and really going through having Two or three models each and they would Do a small catwalk yeah like in the Salon indeed yeah interesting and so When did your grandfather set up the Shop here and just after the war he set Up a second world war he he came over From from Italy and started in Paris and After a few years he joined Mr comps Which was another very friend uh very Famous Spanish influence Taylor really based in Paris yeah and then where does capture

Luca get its kind of English influence From then because your grandfather being From Italy and that could be completely Misstating that right it's it's actually Because the French style was like this Back in the 50s as well yeah and Therefore It's it or has always been like that Yeah I mean what's fascinating me about The evolution of French bespoke Tailoring is that as you said it's kind Of the middle house yes you know it Really kind of exists as its own genre In many ways influenced by the English Influenced by the Italians but really Independent of both those two you know Very kind of strong Different polls yeah well we tried to Take the best of both well for us For sure Um interesting yeah so small toe you Said being slightly more kind of fashion Forward and you know yeah they still They still do And uh so bespoke but they they have a Lot of as well uh ready to wear now and Uh yeah they were Still going on yeah absolutely I think We want these the firms to survive yeah Thrive yes Foreign And today's video was brought to you by Kirby allison.com where you'll find the Largest collection of luxury Garment

Care and luxury shoe care accessories in The world as well as other great Clothing accessories for the Well-dressed like this Sovereign grade Necktie pocket squares braces socks and So much more so if you enjoy the content That we film on this channel make sure You visit Kirby allison.com [Music] Foreign [Music] Which is a very classical French Restaurant Which is one of those they're iconically Parisian Restaurant steak fit stay Perfect with the green sauce right the Peppercorn green sauce and you cannot Reserve so you all you have to keep you Have to queue and they only have one Thing on the menu which is stick fruits Yes right and I think it only comes One Way medium so don't ask for medium rare Or medium plus they don't offer it uh I Was there this is actually one of the First place I took my children whenever We came to Paris on this trip and they Loved it they loved all the waitresses And they actually do have some really Nice desserts as well and then the Second place we took a meshe Andre which The nice thing about this restaurant is They will allow you to book and they Have one of the most marvelous Steak tartars yes and then one of my

Favorite of all of the French desserts Which is the hills hotel the floating Islands [Music] So here we're continuing Which is a street which is in between Chandelier and Avenue side okay and here Just opposite us we have Seth rollach Which is a very famous French hair Cutter from experience I know because Not much left And then a little bit further up we have The American Church yeah of course yeah So this is interesting story so after The birth of my my first daughter second Child Paloma Paloma child whose name we Share in common yes this is where we Spent Easter that that year so we were Here in Paris for a month and needed a Place to go to Easter and this is the One English-speaking church so there we Were Easter here and so we have there's Also Sonic a little bit further off Which has some very nice uh restaurants As well and that's the Four Seasons Right the famous Four Seasons Hotel here In Paris yeah let's go see it [Music] Foreign [Music] Which has quite a few restaurants in Here you have three three uh one Three-star Mission now one and two style One style missioner and they're very

Nice restaurants as well so the dining In Paris as well so you can get six Stars all in one day the one star for Breakfast the two star for lunch and the Three star for dinner have you tried it Yet I've tried all three but no I'm not On the same day uh Julian you're letting Me down here well it's a beautiful hotel And of course the four seasons of monks Kind of some of the finest we've got the Bugari right here across the street and This is kind of one of the famous Avenues [Music] Thank you [Music] Well so here we are plasma dumb yes and Just uh a few meters from plasmodome you Have a very famous house Chavez which I Know you you like very much and one of My favorite places in all the world I Feel like this is the kind of the mecca For menswear everyone should have a Pilgrimage here do shirts and ties yeah But I think you know they're second Floor Salon as we would say in America First floor and French is one of the Most unique places in all of the world For bespoke Village Collection of Materials which is incredible I mean Whether they're pushing like what 150 Years I think yes I mean they all but Invented the shirt the classic the Classic shirt as we know it now yes

Charvet was if I'm corrected I'm wrong But they're the ones that kind of Created the um Detachable and then turn down collars Indeed yeah so have you been in I mean Are you familiar with yes very much yes We I sometimes I buy my ties there Because they are very particular the Shirts obviously is uh I make myself but Uh the ties yeah yeah well I mean this Is uh I know you're one of the best Unique places right one of your kids you Made it well one of your kids Is amazing of course I mean they have Ready to wear on the first floor so ties Pocket square shirts they have a made to Measure program yes but on the second Floor the bespoke salon with the piles And piles of fabrics I mean entire bolts Is unlike anything I've seen in the World and whenever you go into order as You well know you're not flipping Through Swatch books but you're actually You'll grab an entire bolt of fabric From which your exact length is cut Before that bolt is then returned to the Stack it's really really magnificent Should we grab a quick sandwich now yeah Let's do that Thank you So we just grabbed the quicksandridge at Liberty model which we make a very nice Sandwiches and easy to eat and we can Continue our journey throughout Paris

Yeah where to next then and now we go to Cote okay brilliant you know I forget How close everything is here So uh here we are coming up to uh Corte Oh yes which is another very famous uh French uh Shoemaker and you own a few Pairs of Cortez don't you yes because We've no cartel up here how are you yeah From well and um so he is as well one of The few french Bespoke Shoemaker yeah and he makes Ready to wear as well so yeah very Distinctly French right with the patina And the slightly more chiseled shapes And More Adventurous models yeah yeah And they're patina they had two entrants Into the 2021 world championship of Patina that we had in London recently And Taiwan one of the Corte guys Actually won so maybe we'll get to see Him today also that's a few massive [Music] Well nice to be back in Paris oh hey and Uh here we are at court day another Iconic of the kind of Parisian Parisian Brands Um [Music] Just cleaning a shape for sneaker or Casual shoes okay so I'm just preparing The Prototype just yeah for Designing on It Yeah congratulations I mean you had two Of the finalists in the world

Championship of patina at the super Trunk show in London and tawan who I Think we might see later actually won so You have sunny here now and sunny as Well yeah so the two of the three and Then so quite a testament to all the Patina work that you've become so well Known for And Paris with in Paris yeah in general Yes so you're doing all of your work Just right here right off of the plaza Undone over bespoke is it's doing here Yeah this space and the other space for The upper in the basement we are our Stock of lost and shoe machine but Everything is yeah amazing that means Really speaks to that providance of Bespoke that you know the customer can See you in the showroom just right here The last making is done by you here as Well with someone from the rest of the Team and then we've got your shoemakers Hard at work and then right across you Know toean or sunny finishing it off With that iconic iconic Corte patina Yeah and you've got a few pairs of Course I have a few pairs yes which Pairs like what type of styles is the Classic uh that I love what's your Patina of choice I have uh purple uh Going on for the black and I have a Black one with the red Pie King as well Okay which I quite like uh wearing yes There we go so I mean we were talking

Earlier about how You know the style in Paris is so Different from that in London and you Look at a house like Corte which really Takes it to you know the highest level But even someone like me that's quietly That's a I guess significantly more Conservative I mean in Paris I would Really only imagine wearing a pair of Brown shoes whereas in London you know London I never if I'm just going to London I want background so that's kind Of part of the difference in style in Style and and in shape as well as we Were talking earlier yeah what's your I Mean it's a Shoemaker how do you see That difference Um you mean the difference in style Between you know French style Parisian Style and and British French style it's Probably a mix of both because What I can notice and even in the past The French Shoemaker yeah they're really There or something the color and the Model It can be very article you get Complicated I don't think we can find this in England in England Yes it really makes a lot of those we Can have very sharp laughs not too Pointed but very sharp and also round Toes off square toes and it's a lot of Influence yeah well in other ways I mean

I often think that you know the British Are so much about their rules that they Never break so you've got your rules for Classic menswear for whatever and the Rules are in Paris and then French you Know they don't mind breaking the few Rules Yeah I mean come on that's that's for The English yeah probably from you know In fashionable English could be talking Crazy too yeah because you see the Palm Movements yes yeah yeah you know the Designer you can find it Crazy but the shoes Goes back to this rule-breaking culture I mean in The Establishment it's very Much about the rules the hierarchy the Rigidity and you see that reflected Through the clothing yeah St James's I Mean dark suits black shoes this is a Uniform black or navy socks that's all You see and that's about it great well It's nice to see you you know on a hot Summer day here in Paris and I think We're gonna pop across and go see tawan Yes and sunny Yeah thank you [Music] Thank you Gentlemen how's everyone nice to see you Nice to see you nice to see you well uh I've been so calm and peaceful in here Yes this is where the magic is happening Indeed right that's why they're doing

The the pitiha and uh we have uh the Podium of last year's uh patina that's Right yeah so we get the 2022 World Champion and patina Don congratulations And then Sunny of course was there as Well I mean Corte really having a great Showing and of course the patina is such A large part of what they're doing here Yes very much so what are you actually Uh doing right now oh I'm making a Patina we call moss on this uh modern Troubad Moss is between black and light Green color so we always do things that Make everything looks natural the Liquidation is always as smooth as Possible uh Twan in here is making Platinum called lighted Bonnie exactly Like the alkalbi yeah display in here And Benjamin is making the shoe shining On a new pair okay for the custom right So I mean really every pair of shoes Even many of the ready to wear come Through your bespoke patina process is That right yes indeed we start from Scratch actually we we got the the the Left in the beginning is which is very Light brown so we apply at all the dye As you can see here so for this patina We applied the color we call Olive it's A mix of yellow and dark green to to Find this kind of color on the front and Then with the brushes as you can see Here we automate the Creations to mix And everything looks like age four years

Yeah I mean it's amazing I mean we were Talking a little bit earlier about just Kind of the differences in style with Menswear between the French and the English when it comes to bespoke Shooting it can be quite uh subtle now It's obvious and prominent to a trained Eye but whenever it comes to Footwear I Mean in many ways it's as loud as day Yeah because the the the effects and the Coloring they're trying to achieve is Pretty incredible yeah but that Distinction between French and English Style I think in many ways is most Notable through the patina Footwear I Think yeah I mean the patina but even The shapes I mean on general which are Much pointier elongated sharper lines as We were talking earlier with uh with PR Yes I think it's it's really into the Shape and and to the to the work that Goes into the shoes yeah Sonny just kind Of curious I mean what's your Perspective on kind of the French and Specifically the Corte kind of Perspective on Footwear oh I think that We have a lot of rooms to build as we Are very very very nice In this big word of Footwear uh actually Weak like a very very small Factory that It could be small today I think that we We succeed to Bring the love of the people coming in Here to explain what we do

And actually old This is not a common shoe store yeah Actually when you come in here there's Colors everywhere we obviously not a Common uh A common mind that people think but Their shoes thought should be and in Somehow the most important Thing with wanting here do you love what You see yeah and this is a good story Yeah and if you love what you see and You love what you wear it's complete Well yeah I mean you look at this beautiful pair Of shoes right here and I mean it's not something that I have in My wardrobe currently but I look at this And I want to wear them were you yeah They're beautiful exactly I mean Especially with that nice shine yeah It's a gorgeous pair of shoes It's the frontier between what I should Do or what what I want to do that's Right this is uh you know What we should Thrive and when we should Try for everybody yes and constant Struggle indeed we were always struggle Between ourselves and you know the image Of ourselves that we want to show Together yeah our ego and our altered to Go Yeah well gentlemen a pleasure to see You in Paris Thank you thank you cheers

[Music] Paris is such a beautiful city we are Here now placement yes the the heart of Parisian luxury right indeed yeah They're only allowed to have jewelry Around this okay okay And as that kind of historically always Been the case yeah I mean it's it's Since the community won't do them they Decided that only jury should be on this Square so that's actually kind of Official yes [Music] Foreign Hi I'm Kirby Allison and thank you for Watching today's video if you enjoy the Content that we film here on this YouTube channel one of the best ways That you can support our ability to film Even more great content is by visiting Kirby allison.com where you'll find the Largest collection of luxury Garment Care luxury shoe care and other great Clothing accessories for the Well-dressed also we have a patreon page Where 100 of the proceeds from our Patreon go to our ability to travel in Pursuit of this quality craftsmanship And tradition so if you love the content These are two great ways to support what You see here on youtube.com Kirby Allison So what is this right here Julian this Is this is the column the LaPlace where

At the top you have Napoleon of course Yes it's the top of everything here And if we just go around the plasma Dome You have uh obviously the Ritz and then A lot of the luxury houses that make uh Jewelry you have graph you have Katie Van Cleef just keep going around you Have Blanca Chanel Gucci And finishing over there with Patek and Dior and reggae and obviously the the Shop of Louis Vuitton which is uh on the Other side of the plus yeah and this was Under renovation for such a long time I Mean a massive project to renovate the Ritz yes this was under renovation to Clean uh The Columns yeah and you have Even the ministry of justice and they Are probably the best location for a Minister to be at right here but it's Beautiful now to have it all finally Reopened yeah yeah and you see the all The the nice architecture of the 18th Century you know the the streets and The Walking In Paris really is some of the Most beautiful there is We're very very lucky yeah so what's Next so so we were off of room our buff We came back to the plasma Dome we saw Charvet with petite Van Damme for some Sandwiches we went to courte to see Their shoes here we are back at the Plazvon dumb uh where to next just kind Of help keep me oriented and I think We'll just go down and on the left go to

Uh relief okay another exceptionally Famous indeed and we'll see a few other Houses that will be interesting a few Minor houses yeah Uh and then we're off to your shop yes With pleasure brilliant let's go shall We [Music] Are coming high around Where you have a few other luxury Brands Like Which you know iconic trunk maker one of My favorite of all the uh yes and you Have a nice collection and I remember The book the book yesterday it was uh Very nice I bought with my wife on our First trip to Paris yes but this is the First time we met there yes it was Actually uh 15 years ago hard to believe We've come a long way I'd say much Better dress than we were back then Maybe not you but certainly me So it's amazing you know go yard Louboutin I mean we're trunk Manufacturers yes you know making trunks You know luggage for Steamers yeah Um and an incredible kind of history and Provenance it really speaks to kind of Paris as really being kind of a center Of travel and one of the things that I Love about goyard is at least until the Last five or ten years you could really Only find it here in Paris all right Yeah that's uh and they have their also

Their iconic design yeah and uh very Different than what you can find you Know if I had a limitless uh you know Limitless of memes I suppose you know I Had to go crazy with the trunks because There's just something to a truck that Really is uh there's a romance to it but It's not easy nowadays to to travel with The trunk no no no it's more for look Than anything else I need a humidor they Do a trunk right that opens up and it's Got all these drawers dehumidor most Magnificent thing Foreign One of the most famous shopping I mean Piercing so many of these shopping Streets but and here we are coming up to Uh manao which is another uh trunk maker Yeah this was uh bought maybe 10 years Ago I think from uh from Pinot yeah it Was now resurrected yes the resurrection Of the brand and they have their own Particular style as well they have a Front making similar to Louboutin Yeah you know kind of a history in Making trunks but really more focused on The leatherness right yeah and working Yes I'm working a lot with the leather Goods Any other favorite shops here on the Street uh there's uh there's a few down The road that we can see I'll show you Well the final stretch it is yeah so We're here and we are arriving at our

New uh shop which yeah is uh very Tempting to show you because it has been Uh it only opened two years now is that Right you're right before the pandemic Right it was a rush to get it open and Then everything locks down well it's a Big accomplishment to finally have a Retail store yeah I know it's really Nice and we're really happy with that And then what about the bespoke is the Bespoke's still down here so yes we have The ground floor and the first floor Where we do the bus okay After you [Music] [Applause] [Music] Yeah so here we are and this is the new Space that we've uh opened up and uh Congratulations yeah absolutely Charles Hey great to see you again great to see You too you know it's nice to be back in Paris and see that you guys are as you Know looking younger happy or healthier Than you know two years ago whenever I Saw you guys that's because he's become A father again oh congratulations So your first child you had right before Cobit it was like a year before the First one is the four years old okay and Uh it's going to be five years old one And the next one just arrived five Months ago Can't believe you're at work yeah

But I have two boys like this the future Is coming yeah that's right someone's Got to take over his two girls your two Boys so he's got all the work of uh Training the next uh Next Generation Next Generation to take over the family Firm we have good tea over there yeah That's right well I mean it's a Beautiful shop and of course uh in Addition to still being the home of Comsta Luca the bespoke tailoring house Uh you guys opened ataye De Luca here on The ground floor is that right that's Great so here we are making made to Measure uh suits uh with uh hand work a Lot of behind work a little bit less Than what we do for comes to look Obviously because the price range is uh Is very different and this is really Interesting yeah well another Interesting thing is also that you know You and or both of you I mean Julian and Charles right who cut for bespoke are Also the ones that are doing the ataye The Luca so you have that same eye and That same knowledge that is offered to The bespoke clients just at a more Approachable price point indeed that's Correct what is the price if you don't Mind me asking of the uh so the price Range starts at 2 500 euros okay and Then depending on the material we go up To 2 800 3 000. so that's the and then Comsta Luca that would be starting at

Seven thousand Euros Congratulations on that thank you and Then you also have a very smart line of Accessories you've got socks ties some Garment brushes Kirby Alice and the shoe Horns and shoe horns here in Paris yeah So a very flattered and honored that you Guys uh you show horns are the best one Because they are really tall yeah so When you're making the fitting it's Pretty easy for the customers to use it So congrats for that yeah thank you well You know see small details that matter That's for sure and is it just suiting No so we actually do other pieces that Complement the Wardrobe for the man we Do jackets we make over jackets we make Teddies we make uh in leather and in Cloths as well so we really have this Approach of having a full range for the For the men's wardrobe yeah and is there A separate Instagram for this yes so This is still actually so it's all under The same umbrella okay Um when we saw each other last time we Were really Lepe and this is when we Bought Stockinson and stock and Sons now is Dedicated to all the uniforms that we Make for the French Administration and For the academic Academy forces and Other French States and slowly Developing as well for other countries Okay yeah so kind of a traditional I

Mean uniform business almost yeah with Incredible embroidery and network I mean To the likes that you know you you'll Never see in a bespoke suit just because It's not automated like that yeah yeah Okay so um I think we can now go Upstairs and show you the the space Officer has for the bespoke okay great Charles take care great seeing you Thanks yeah hope to see you soon bye So this is the uh shot on the first Floor where we have the bespoke yeah Okay and uh Yeah well it's kind of I have to say I Was a little nervous returning to Paris After such a long absence I mean it's Been the longest uh You know longest time having not visited Paris since My French certainly has been a coveted Casualty but uh doing my best I need to Be drinking more champagne more morally The story laundry afterwards yeah so It's exciting to be here I mean comps Deluca of course now is really one of The two most preeminent French tailoring Houses it's really constaluca and Chiffonelli that we saw this morning Together this morning Massimo and Lorenzo waiting from the balcony at us So um I just wanted to show you one of The jackets for example that we're Making and Foreign

This is the first fitting so you can see The uh inside of the jacket that we are Making for the moment and you can see We've started doing the pockets and this Is really a basic first fitting yeah for A client and so you're using white Basting thread but here's yellow so yeah This is to determine some of the quasu And some of the the where we place the Pockets the white one is to hold Actually it together for the moment okay Before we we finish the jacket yeah and I can show you another jacket where We're working which we finished actually Okay and you can see the details of the Handwork yeah that we have inside [Music] Foreign Right now and yes today it would have Been a good a good day to wear this and With the historical teardrop pocket yeah We make and the all the hand work that We do obviously a little bit of Structure of the chest here that we do And the the with the sleeve with the Cigar height so how would you say that French You know French tailoring or comsta Luca Differs from say a Savile Row Bespoke tailoring house and its approach Towards the handwork the make Because there are subtle differences Between the two I mean they both create Absolutely fantastic products

But there's a difference just I mean of You guys being here in Paris I think Historically Paris Uh for the tailors has been a lot more Hand work and a lot more details into Hand work because Paris is the high Fashion for women as well therefore we Have the knowledge and the Hand the hand Work that allowed for this to be much More precise I would say uh possibly Than the English and we kept a little Bit of the structuring as we were Discussing this morning and uh and the Light weight of the of the structuring For more towards like the Italian but It's as we were saying it's a little bit Of in between yeah the two Geographically and in terms of of work Inside yeah for the structuring I mean This teardrop is quite iconic but even The campster Luca label is hand Embroidered in the into the lining yeah But I think you know we received the Influence in Paris from Italian to Europe and especially for our house Mr Council Spanish and my father Italian so they Mixed a little what they learn in the Country and anyway Like they in great they want to to be Stronger and to show more than the other One yeah so they have to to create Something to to be more different and Differentiations and the other tailors

Yeah what about the house cut and style I mean if someone were to see you from Across the street you know what are the First one or two things that they would Initially notice that Mark a comes to Luca suit Um I think one of the things is the high Armhole with the the sleeve head that Has been mounted our Classic Fish Mouse Okay uh lapel right here clearly see on On dad and myself Which is one of the signatures of the Parisian Taylors in terms we try and Design an athletic figure with the Structuring of the of the canvas which Um gives a nice silhouette and we break The vents which is basically hair at the Back we there's a lot more work needed For for it for the back to be flat yeah Okay yeah what's famine I've got such Such a you know phenomenal amount of Respect for your work I mean it's Amongst the best in the world I mean Really uh and it's uh you know amazing To come in and see what you're working On because there's always something Absolutely beautiful I mean this being An example the garments each of you Gentlemen are wearing it's difficult to Feel well dressed you know in the Presence of such Titans of tailoring I Remember when I saw you the first time It wasn't pleasant yes okay and you open The door

And they say wow Well very kind it's a long time I mean It was uh you know whenever we first met You guys were still in the class of Madeline and I were still remember going To the party the last hurray if you will And I'd never seen in my life Taylor's Have so much fun dancing the night away Perhaps we did that evening Um and then you guys were at Rue La pre And then here we are in this absolutely Beautiful new latte Of course if someone is here in Paris They can come see you here definitely we Do the fittings the measurements and Everything yeah and we travel uh around The world to to see our clients and I Think uh in the Autumn will be coming to Uh to the US yeah keep on keep on Telling me you're gonna come to Dallas Um but you hit I mean much I mean hit Singapore much of Europe yes right Euresa even go to the Dubai you were There actually for a 24-hour trip over The weekend yes uh yesterday yeah and uh And we go to the Middle East and uh Africa oh yeah quite a bit and we will Next next September we'll try and try And go more often to the US well true Global tailor right to the I mean Literally to the world's Elite the best Dressed and the most traveled so well uh Well great and and I guess you have you Have Instagram right yes

Also for consta Luca and someone can Message you guys through that yeah yeah Okay well Mark you know Thank you so much And thank you for Lending us Julian for The day we walked him or should I say he Walked us clear around Paris Um but what fun this was okay thank you So much cheers but don't forget you tell Me that you are drinking champagne and To speak French yes well let's start I Think we need the champagne [Music] Thank you