My $80,000 Bespoke Suit and Jacket Collection [CLOSET TOUR]

Hi I’m kirby allison and in today’s video We’re going to review My entire collection of bespoke suits This has been a video that a lot of People have been asking for So i pulled all my suits out of my Closet brought them here into our studio So that we can go through them one by One discussing who made them What makes them unique and why it is That i commissioned that particular suit If you’ve seen the video where i go Through my full collection of bespoke Shoes You’re going to love this video so Actually my first bespoke Suit i didn’t purchase that until five Or six years after i graduated college By that time i’d become friends with Chris despos Who is a bespoke tailor based in chicago Traveling to dallas texas he really kind Of split his time He became a good friend of mine and Chris is widely considered to be one of The most talented And well-respected bespoke tailors here In the united states And so as chris and i kind of developed Our friendship i always told chris That the first piece i want you to make For me is going to be my wedding tuxedo So my first bespoke commission was in

Fact my tuxedo And now 11 years ago i was 27 whenever i Had him make this And very traditional bespoke tuxedo of Course you can see our video on black Tie guide Where we go through all of the elements That one should look for in a proper Bespoke tuxedo But i wanted this made as traditionally As possible It’s made in a nice heavyweight midnight Blue wool fabric we went for 100 wool And not Mohair because it’s a slightly kind of Finer more formal texture Peak lapels of course a satin face And a single button just standard kind Of bessem pocket no patch Of course trousers being very Traditional also There was one modification to the Trouser that i did And that was in this time i was younger 27 years old Really wasn’t wearing cummerbunds and so I had This increase from the standard kind of Inch Trouser band that would normally be on a Tuxedo to about an inch and a half or Inch and a quarter The idea was is that if i was wearing These trousers without a cover bun

This kind of almost served that purpose Another interesting detail Right here of course is the double faced Kind of silk Ribbon most traditionally on a tuxedo You have A ribbon of satin silk and then on the Other side is grosgrain silk which kind Of gives that Interesting texture there the back on This again Slight break from tradition was done With a double vent Again traditionally a tuxedo would have No vents but on this I really love just the way that a double Vent drapes and so i felt like it was an Appropriate liberty to take and kind of Breaking from tradition Now but this was my first bespoke Commission And i felt like you know what a great Place to start in commissioning Something bespoke I’m really going for that special Garment and i’ll always remember You know kind of getting there married And my bespoke tuxedo It just was such an important occasion And this suit This bespoke tuxedo made it really all The more special so there we go This is my first bespoke garment after The tuxedo it was time to become a

Little bit more practical And so my second commission from chris This was really In consultation with him was a very Simple suit That i could get as much wear out of as Possible And so we went for a dark charcoal gray Single breasted Single button also which is a preference Of mine But what i like about this suit is it Has a very subtle and fine herringbone Texture here Which gives this otherwise very simple Plain but formal suit a little bit of Visual detail Which anyone that watches this channel Knows that i am a real fan Of just a touch of visual detail and Texture into otherwise solid fabrics It really just makes them so much more Rich and so much more interesting Now this is out of an eight eight and a Half ounce fabric so it’s a real In texas it’s a four season fabric Really Simple classic proportions a relatively High notch stance Great balance on the lapel width about Half of the distance between the Shoulder and the interior of the jacket Plus half an inch is normally kind of Chris’s rule of thumb

Beautiful beautiful proportions and Again I have gotten so much use out of this Suit and for the longest time it was Literally my only suit all of my bespoke Trousers Really all of my trousers for that most Part after i graduated college Were all done with tabs i think Especially if you’re having something Made You know why go for a belt all it does Is really break The visual kind of drape if you will for The visual height You know you’re basically putting a belt Right in the middle of your waist which Just disrupts that Whenever you’re traveling or getting Dressed in the morning it’s one more Accessory to worry about So i’m a huge fan of tabs again if You’re having it made they should They should fit and you shouldn’t really Need a belt tab should be fine And so this was made with tap trousers And then no pleat On the trouser leg which again gives it An extra touch of formality Which was so great for this suit if we Look at the back Again pretty much all of my stuff Is traditional kind of classic british Vents

Double vented which again i think Especially in a well-tailored suit Gives just such a beautiful kind of Drape to the back of the suit itself So for the longest time i mean this suit Really Was my workhorse it’s still a suit i Wear And it’s still a suit that i love and Get compliments on And i think that if you’re again Commissioning a suit and we’ve spoken About this a lot on the channel You should really focus on those Fundamentals those classic items That you know that you’re going to never Fall out of love with and will be able To wear as long as possible I’ve already had the trousers let out Once on this you know i think a few Years ago But you know it’s a really testament to How this suit is able to stand the test Of time And i’m able to get so much wear out of It so this is still a favorite suit of Mine And if i ever find that i grow out of This or for some reason I’m unable to wear it anymore i think i Would have this Remade just as it is here so up next From chris i commissioned a pair of odd Jackets two eye jackets i’m going to

Show them both to you right now The idea was okay i’ve got my suit Now i need something you know slightly Less formal Something i can wear you know with an Odd pair of trousers You know on the weekend and so we went For two different jackets Now this is an interesting jacket Because it has both brown And black in it it’s kind of a Herringbone or that’s actually a strong Twill not a herringbone Again beautiful balance on the lapels Notch lapel single breasted This is a two button versus a one of Course you would only ever button The top button a standard kind of breast Pocket here Flat pockets right here that can be Tucked in to just have a bessen pocket Again it is a double vented in the back As is all of my jackets from chris and This is a jacket that i think Really speaks to the wisdom of chris as A bespoke tailor Now this is in fact exceptionally Versatile because you can Wear it with gray trousers and you can Wear it you know with brown trousers so It allows you To cover more of the kind of color Palette spectrum Than if it was 100 brown or if it was of

The gray family So this is a great jacket the lapel work Is beautiful A beautiful kind of crescent shape here An absolutely marvelous roll You know in the lapel and you know Chris’s finishers or coat makers Actually came from chiefenelli but back Whenever cifinelli was in rome So chris used to always joke that his Jackets were more chief venelli than Chiefanelli And you can really see kind of the Italian character come out of his work But he wasn’t rigidly italian you know One of the things i loved Most about chris was his ability to Really Kind of bridge a classic british you Know french and italian tailoring Kind of take all that together and then Based on the particular client Really kind of pick from one or the Other and to create creations That really were truly bespoke chris is Again to this day One of the most talented bespoke tailors I’ve ever encountered Unfortunately he’s really not making With the same volume that he once used To So unfortunately these are all my pieces From them we’ll go through them here in A moment

But anyway odd jacket beautiful eye Jacket here And one that i certainly enjoy wearing So as i said the odd jackets were Commissioned as a pair The other one of those pairs is Beautiful green jacket One of the first things that you’ll Notice here it’s 100 cashmere But it almost looks like it’s a donegal It’s not it’s not a tweed And it but it has this beautiful kind of Melange effect This dimensionality to the cloth that Really gives Again great visual texture one of my Favorite words so this jacket again It’s a very simple very easy to wear Jacket it doesn’t have an over check or A window pane or any type of strong Pattern That makes it difficult to match but it Is an absolutely beautiful color It’s a darker color it works great with My complexion but it’s got a lot of kind Of really interesting secondary colors Woven into the fabric itself but this Jacket Probably is one of my most worn jackets Odd jackets of the entire lot at least Until recently Until you know joe hemmer johnny joe and David started making some other pieces For me

This was another absolute workhorse a Very kind of simple Easy lining i mean nothing you know to Really kind of stand out or write home About But again i think that whenever it comes To bespoke tailoring you want to be Focusing on those classics That are really going to stand the test Of time that you’re never going to grow Old of Or tired of so this jacket is an Absolute favorite of mine Up next it was time to kind of mix it up With something More fun and interesting again i’m in my 20s maybe i’m 30 whenever i commissioned This piece It is a black watch dinner jacket peak Lapels It’s not a tuxedo jacket right it Doesn’t have the grosgrain silk although You could make this With satin or grosgrain silk facing on The lapels and it would work great with The tuxedo But the idea of this is that i could Wear it with my tuxedo trousers if i Wanted to Or i could wear it simply as a jacket With a pair of dark gray trousers out to Dinner at night or out to a party It’s a very dark black watch which again In this light you can kind of see the

Green the various colors of green And then some really navy blue here but One of the things i like about this Is that at night and lower light it’s Honestly difficult to differentiate from A black tuxedo jacket at all So again this is a fun jacket that i’ve Really enjoyed Wearing over the years again here in Texas at least i don’t have That many opportunities to wear my Tuxedo but whenever i’m going out to a Nice dinner with my wife or we’re going To a party This is an absolutely just stunning Jacket Now wear it sometimes with a tuxedo Shirt and a bow tie A black satin bow tie but oftentimes I’ll even wear this Just with a white open collar shirt it Looks Really just as good it’s dressy it’s Formal but you know a little bit casual Kind of at the same time And now this is a single button right Peak lapel as i said Uh and then double vents in the back of Course and then you know you decided to Make it a little bit more fun Kind of with this lime green lining Again you know this is the jacket you Wear to a party So this is a good occasion to have

Something a little bit more loud Now one of the other details that i Think is interesting about this tune you Can’t see it right here But the sleeves are cut a little bit Slimmer Than the sleeves on my other jackets a Slightly higher arms hole And a little bit more waist suppression So whenever you put this thing on you Feel like you’re putting on a glove it Feels great You look great and i’ve really enjoyed Having this kind of one Odd dinner jacket if you will so Absolutely fun jacket i’ve really Enjoyed this And really i think that i would Recommend that everyone Have at least one fun dinner jacket if You will To go out to party or to nice dinner That dresses it up and this certainly Does the trick So my next jacket was originally a suit But unfortunately i wore those trousers Out and so now it is just an odd jacket And this is where you know we kind of Got into more interesting materials so This jacket right here is What is made from a fresco fabric which Is an open Weave so it is really made for Summertime and

For warmer climates because it breathes Much more easily It was done with three kind of patch Pockets so patch breast pocket too Which has an absolutely kind of Beautiful shape to it Almost kind of like a teardrop and then Patch Pockets right here this is a Really kind of a dark brown so again Those darker colors kind of really work With my complexion but a great jacket That again Could be worn with a pair of matching Trousers or As an odd jacket notch lapel two buttons And again you know chris’s proportion Just on this Is absolutely beautiful one of the other Things i like about Fresco is it has a slight sheen in the Sunlight And so this again warren you know to Pity womo And florence you know on kind of a hot Summer day really was a perfect jacket Nice kind of a shimmer in the sun still Pretty cool So again this was cut with double vents An absolutely beautiful jacket That i’ve loved kind of simple lining But again this as far as summertime Suits goes Uh really was absolutely exceptional and

I really mourned The loss of the trousers here you can See the beautiful kind of crescent shape To the lapel And all of chris’s stuff just had a Great roll uh You know the lapels of his jackets Featured so much dimensionality without Being you know too flamboyant It’s one of the things i love it’s one Of the subtle details of the make Because different makers even bespoke Makers Have varying degrees of role kind of In their lapel some can lie quite flat Like Comps de luca in paris you know really Doesn’t have as much of a role But chris really kind of worked a Beautiful shape into this and a Beautiful roll Uh you know there was a little bit of Structure to the shoulder but really not Too much roping here Nothing too extravagant and this Jacket’s one of my favorites Another summer suit this is a beautiful Kind of tan suit A lot of those characteristics that Chris has built into my suits have kind Of carried through It’s one of the great things about Working with bespoke tailor that you’re Able to build a relationship with is

That consistency once you kind of settle On an aesthetic it kind of Sticks and as you can see again notch Lapel A two button this is a beautiful kind of Summertime suit It’s really kind of an oatmeal tan it’s Not a brown tan Very neutral very easy to wear Just a totally effortless suit this Really shows kind of the beautiful pick Stitching along the edge of lapel A great kind of gorge stance beautiful Kind of shape here and roll Absolutely beautiful jacket the trousers Were done With no cuffs tabs with really kind of a Just a standard rise and as you’ll see Kind of i progressed My rise has progressively got taller Until i went Really all the way to braces another Great summer suit which I guess given the fact that i live in Texas it made sense that You know once i knocked out the basics Really where i went to next Wasn’t winter weight suiting but really Summer weight suiting This is another absolutely spectacular Suit Probably one of my all-time favorites It’s another fresco But this is a beautiful kind of blue

Melange I mean just the color detail here Is exceptional we made this again with Patch pockets Down here but a standard kind of breast Pocket To differentiate it from the brown Fresco one i made so again a Slightly more formal not as casual as The brown one And this jacket is just a looker an Absolute standout Beautiful jacket i mean this is The workmanship of bespoke tailoring the Way that that pad stitching is done This lapel is literally sewn into the Fabric And as long as it’s dry cleaned properly And that the life isn’t pressed out of It That that roll is going to stay there i Mean this is jacket Is easily seven years old kind of Standard blue lining Again the trousers were done with no Cuffs Single reverse pleats and with tabs now That it’s starting to warm up i’m really Looking forward to wearing this again And i’m gonna have to rotate it back Into my closet so that is actually it For all of my chris despos uh bespoke Pieces right there Unfortunately his code makers you know

Became You know really old and just stopped Making and so his uh kind of work Collapsed or his volume collapsed and i Think he’s you know doing a few pieces Now but you know maybe just a few suits A month That he’s actually making himself so Next what i’m going to do Is i’m going to show you a few of the Other pieces that i had made kind of Interdispersed in these right here the First Non-chris despos kind of custom jacket That i had made Was from a traveling tailor from hong Kong called wwe chan So this is made from a zania fabric it’s A box plaid Maybe with a little bit of an over check And you know it’s a nice jacket And we did it with let’s see slanted Pockets here They have flaps but i mostly keep the Flats tucked in And this to me i have to say it was a Little bit of a disappointing experience For me so i actually drove all the way Down to houston I mean of course the idea was is that It’s a hong kong tailor Going to be able to acquire pieces for a Significant discount to what a fully Bespoke piece from chris despos costs

But wwe chan came with a good good Reputation And i’ll never forget the experience and Just how disappointing it was compared To chris despos You know i drive all the way down to Houston from dallas I go to a hotel in the galleria area And i walk into a room that probably had 200 fabric books Laid out and so the gentleman that was There with wwe chan said Nice to meet you okay we’ll take a look At some fabrics and you know let me know If you find anything you like And it basically was like dropping me Into the middle of a forest With no compass and saying find your way Out there was no help there was no Meaningful engagement in terms of making Recommendations You know there was no like you know These are my recommendations for you or These are my favorite fabrics it was Like no Take a look at these swatches and let me Know what you like Maybe it just was a cultural difference Right and really kind of deferring to The client and not overstepping their Bounds But one of the things i appreciated so Much about chris was again that he was Bold and confident

In his recommendations and was really Able to You know kind of take everything he knew About you to make absolutely perfect Fabric recommendations And honestly better recommendations than I would even be able to choose myself And so with chris basically i said look Make make whatever you want to make for Me You know i need a summer suit i need a Dinner jacket you know and then he would Just kind of come up with some Recommendations and I think you know 10 times out of 10 i’d Say that’s beautiful That’s great let’s go with it and so This jacket right here Again it is a single breasted two button It has a notch lapel but you can Immediately see that this jacket lacks a Little bit of life that i get from the Bespoke chris despos piece So i’m going to try to put these right Next to each other you can see That this is a much wider lapel than What we have right here on this channel Piece It again this still looks balanced i Couldn’t go into All of the details without really Measuring it but something’s different There’s really not much of a meaningful Role here

There’s no life to it still impeccably Made i mean it’s a totally handmade Garment There weren’t any fittings for this they Went straight to finish a nice Jacket if i were to go back and do it Over again i probably would choose a Different fabric Again double vents in the back but this Jacket i don’t know You have to let me know what you think In the comments section maybe i’m being A little bit too critical of it But i really never went back at the wwe Chan after this you know i get some use Out of this But not it’s not a jacket that i really Fell in love with It just kind of fell flat now a jacket That i did fall in love with And i’ve only grown to love even more With age Is this a black herringbone jacket from Robbie taylor he was a friend Of the english cutter tom mahone and I’ll never forget I was in new york went to go visit tom He was actually traveling with ravi at That time And ravi who was an indian gentleman Older than tom comes out In a stroller and i’ve never seen a Stroller before So a black kind of jacket herringbone

Jacket Beautiful waistcoat a pair of Traditional Kind of stroller trousers which are the Black and gray Kind of herringbone pattern pinstripes Is what they call them And he looked like he had come out of a Magazine or you know come off of his Yacht or something or walked off his Private jet he looked incredible And i said i want you to make that for Me and so he did As a stroller it is a less formal Than a morning suit right so it doesn’t Have the The drop or the tails of the traditional Morning jacket does But you would still wear the same Trousers and the same waistcoat And back in the turn of the 20th century In london this was a daytime business Suit You know you weren’t wearing strollers Anymore all day And so instead you would wear something Like this and this really kind of Bridged The gap between the stroller and then What ultimately became Kind of the traditional pinstripe suit That again would be Associated with the daytime business Formal now what i love about this and

What i’ve really grown To appreciate is i have some other Trousers made for this some dark Charcoal trousers You know the cashmere are kind of Pinstripe traditional stroller trousers You know you can wear them to a wedding You can wear them to ascot But you really can’t wear them around London during the day anymore People kind of mistake you for being the Doorman of a building It’s just too formal outside of one of Those specific events But you take this jacket you take the Waistcoat and you pair it with a pair of Dark gray trousers and this is as good Looking Of an ensemble as you could really ever Imagine The other thing that i like about it is Because it comes with the waistcoat You can dress it up with the waistcoat Or you can remove the Coat and dress it down now it’s still Quite formal but For as far as traveling is concerned This has been one of my most versatile Pieces And there’s rarely an occasion that i Travel to london and don’t take this With me You can see that the positioning of the Gorge is a little bit lower

Than the other uh chris despos pieces Not quite as wide Still beautiful kind of crescent shape And roll In the lapel and so this is made in England not on savile row but on conduit Street which is right around the corner And so slight discount to the pieces That you would get on savile row But this piece again is beautiful it has All of the the substance of the Trimmings The all the components that go on the Inside That really make this an absolutely Bulletproof jacket and it’s what you Would expect from traditional saviro Bespoke tailoring And as i’ve always said you know the Handwork in a bespoke garment Isn’t hand work for the sake of handwork It’s really what Gives the jacket its integrity its Longevity And ensures that regardless of how rough You are how hard travel may be on a Garment like this That you can pull it out of your closet And it’s always going to look great And this jacket i think really Represents that Hardiness of proper british tailoring Better than any really Anything else i have in my closet

Another interesting piece This is a 100 linen suit that i had made In naples Italy by uh satoria formosa He is a base in naples so this is around The time that i was traveling to italy Twice a year for the pittiwamo trade Fair And i would always go down to naples Kind of on my way through I’d visit mario talarico i’d buy some Umbrellas And i always just admired the men in Their linen tuxedo or their linen suits In italy during the summer time and i Said you know what i want to have a Proper italian tailor Make me one of these i was introduced to Formosa from a friend Flew down from milan specifically to see Him So i originally wanted a 100 white linen Suit But he and mario was able to talk me out Of that into something a little bit more Sensible Than a white suit and instead kind of Going for this khaki Or this tan suit which is a beautiful Kind of soft neutral color Easy to wear so this is as italian of an Experience as it gets so he takes my Measurements we kind of go through Everything

And i go back for fitting and then i go Back to kind of get the finished suit And there were a few details that i Really either weren’t discussed Or were discussed and forgotten about at First it has a very heavy double pick Stitch right you can see it right here Normally you would just have the pick Stitching along the edge but of a Quarter of an inch in You’ve got a second row of pick Stitching now It makes it a less or more casual jacket But it’s a detail that i probably Wouldn’t have specified myself i mean It’s nice it’s striking But i’d say it probably stands out a Little too much Just for kind of my personal comfort the Other thing he did Which again was totally unexpected you Can see As he put belt loops on the trousers now He insisted That i asked for belt loops but i tried To I tried to convince him that i really Hadn’t worn belts with Trousers since college but anyway i had To fly out of naples that day there Really wasn’t time to make any Adjustments so we stuck with belt loops So this is In fact the only pair of trousers in my

Entire wardrobe That has belt loops it works you know I’ve got a beautiful belt i can wear With this That i probably bought just for the suit But there it is Again beautiful craftsmanship another Detail again this is very italian Is the fully buttoned fly i mean there’s More buttons to this thing Than i can even imagine and i think it Was will bulky that was saying the Amount of aggregate time A men have lost with the kind of the Button flies and everything Is you know probably incalculable it’s a Detail That is supposed to allow the trouser to Drape more softly Kind of over the front but really any Day of the week i would take a standard Zip Fly just because of the practicality of That beautifully finished neapolitan Trousers We did these with turnips you can see Here now this is like an Inch an inch and a quarter nothing too Bold If i was having this made today i would Probably Increase this to maybe even an inch and A half or inch and three quarters As my style has kind of progressed so

Has The depth of my turnips you can see that The gorge Placement here is much higher than my Other jackets still a nice Width to the lapel so quite quite a Large lapel You know nothing particularly Outstanding about the the roll Kind of very simple and then this again Very italian Is a three roll two and what i mean by That Is there’s actually three button holes But the way that the Lapel is pad stitched is it rolls Through that To really be you know what at the end of The day is a traditional two button Jacket you would only button one And then the pockets flat pockets tucked In at the moment another detail here That i’ll just point out And this is really a kind of in the Pattern making as you can see This having that southern italian dart That starts here at the front Kind of breast goes all the way down Through the pocket And to the bottom of the jacket Something you really only find In naples and really in rome and so The idea is that it is able to the Tailor is able to work more shape

Into the garment that way a few other Details of this particular jacket Since i have it here again i just want To show you Absolutely like almost no structure here On the shoulder there is a little bit of Shoulder padding in here but hard laning That pick stitching goes down the Shoulder line and then you can see the Traditional Kind of italian gathering here around The sleeve head The italians love to do that there’s no Wadding here at the sleeve head that Creates that That kind of roping it’s a very soft Shoulder But they kind of gather it to build a Little bit of extra kind of volume Into the top of the sleeve it’s just Supposed to make it more comfortable And one of the things i enjoy about this Is the best in pocket which allows This flap to be tucked in it’s a little Bit more Money but really standard on most Jackets these days especially bespoke And it allows it to be tucked in for a Slightly cleaner look Or untucked for a slightly more formal Look so there we go great jacket again Summertime piece for me should be coming Out of the closet soon Another interesting piece of course

Everyone is probably familiar with this This is my three-piece suit from alan Flusser This is a navy triple bead stripe Right so it’s not technically a Pinstripe it’s a bead stripe but very Different from all the other ones i’ve Shown you One you can see the position of the Gorge really is noticeably lower Than the other jackets it’s just part of Their house style The lapels aren’t nearly as wide As the other lapels now we’re talking About a quarter of an inch here maybe a Smidge more but it does affect kind of The difference Of the stance beautiful long roll To a two button now this is cut with a Very high waisted pair of trousers Really cut for braces And what do i mean by a pair of trousers That’s cut for braces well if trousers Are cut for braces You know really you shouldn’t be able to Wear them without the braces You know sometimes you can put tabs on It and you can kind of cinch down the Tabs and get away with it But anytime i’m wearing a pair of Trousers without the braces inevitably They want to kind of slide down during The day Because they are deliberately cut at

Least an inch larger than whatever your Natural waistline is Now what it does that allow you it Allows really Maximum comfort because with braces your Trousers always hang properly You’re not having to worry about small Fluctuations in your weight Because you’ve got the room there you’re Not using a belt to really Cinch down at the waist because it’s Hanging you know from the shoulders Whenever you sit down or stand up your Trousers naturally kind of slide Up and down it allows them to drape Beautifully it allows to pleat the Open properly because again they’re kind Of being pulled Up like this that really totally Transforms The way that the trousers are cut and How the trousers perform throughout the Day And if you’re someone that really hasn’t Tried braces out yet i couldn’t More enthusiastically endorse them as Kind of Next level of tailoring and comfort Now so this jacket or this suit is great Again it comes with the waistcoat That’s at the house but i can wear with Or without the waistcoat it’s a nice Kind of formal piece It’s fun to wear and it’s an absolutely

Beautiful suit that i receive a lot of Compliments on And this particular fabric also i think It was carlo barberas who made it But it was a really unique Design that alan flusser worked with Them on to kind of get this triple bead Stripe And it’s almost i mean it’s a cross Between a pinstripe and a chalk stripe It’s not a chalk stripe which would be Softer and larger than a pinstripe But it kind of has that same look it’s Very very unique and again I’ll say it again it’s got that visual Texture That visual detail that really makes it Interesting whenever you come up close So next we’ll talk about the suit that I’m wearing this Is a suit from eric jensen who Is a new york based italian tailor this Is a two button Uh cut with a high-waisted trousers for Braces as i showed you Single reverse pleats this is from a 13 Ounce Dark gray fresco you heard that right 13 Ounces i mean normally that is a winter Weight But because it’s an open weave fresco Fabric it wears much cooler Than the weight itself but what i like About the weight is it gives this jacket

A beautiful structure and a beautiful Drape because it’s still a heavy cloth Now you can see that it drapes Absolutely beautiful It holds its structure now eric you know Being tr having been trained in rome He’s actually now with Satoria gallo which he kind of merged His company in new york With the company in italy sotoria gallo With whom he trained and they basically Formed basically the new york outpost so Now Eric is essentially cutting in new york As satori Sotoria gallows kind of new york based Cutter so one of the things that is Unique About the way that eric cuts is it’s Slightly fuller in the Chest has a little bit more drape again Nice kind of roll in the lapel slightly Wider Lapel stance high notch and one of the Other really interesting details Kind of really blending and milanese Tailoring with neapolitan tailoring Is that he uses roping in the shoulder Right so you see how this is built up It’s not It’s soft tailoring there’s not much Structure in the shoulder pads So because of the roping you know you Have a more prominent kind of shoulder

Here You still have a little bit worked into It a little bit of kind of extra Fabric but really totally different than The shoulder that you would get from a Traditional Kind of a neapolitan tailor so again It’s the influence of that neapolitan Tailoring it has that dark that goes all The way down through the pocket But formalized a little bit for a large City like rome And so again very unique kind of Distinctive Accent if you will on traditional Neapolitan tailoring Up next are my suits from hammer johnny Brothers a joe a Or johnny and now that david has broken Off on his own David.com has done some of my more Recent stuff And a lot of really exciting pieces that I can’t wait to show you now so these I’m going to start a little bit Chronologically But first i’m going to focus on my suits The first piece that i had joe make for Me Was a beautiful charcoal suit solid Charcoal And as a real classic this if anything Would be more of the replacement To that bespoke chris despos suit with

The herringbone So this is made from a beautiful Draper’s five star fabric It’s like a ten and a half ounce fabric It’s got a beautiful hand It’s got a real hard finish it has that Weight that gives it a great drape And because it’s a slightly heavier Fabric it’s one that you can really rely On to last a long time This is a slightly more simple fabric Because it doesn’t have that herringbone Weave but it is still Beautiful and it is still more Importantly exceptionally versatile Now joe really does an exceptional job With all of this stuff it’s a great Value i mean it’s made in hong kong but Joe is based In los angeles he travels all Over or now that david is kind of Running Things on his own they travel all over The united states And they’re able to do basted fittings And we have a ton of videos on this Channel That are really showcasing their work Now if you look at this jacket It’s still completely handmade beautiful Garment With all those trimmings and all that Integrity Of a properly handmade garment that you

Would expect The gorge dance here is again quite high Without being too high Nice balance on the lapels beautiful Roll This is two buttons flat pockets These trousers have tabs so i guess if You know i’m kind of rushing out of the House in the morning Didn’t want to put the braces on i could Kind of pull this tight The only problem with that is you end up With a little bit of wrinkling here and So these trousers are really Best worn with braces and they drape Beautifully with a single Kind of reverse pleat and then these Trousers again I had made with a nice kind of beautiful Turnip This is an inch and a half or an inch And Almost three quarters a nice beautiful Weight One of the other benefits of cuffed Trousers again is the extra weight of The fabric at the bottom Helps kind of cause the trousers to Drape and a nice kind of clean pressed Crisp line Now this is done again with the double Vents in the back All my suits working buttonholes Handwork all over the place

Really what you would expect and now Under the leadership of david They’re really trying to give their Garments that full bespoke experience Where you have a fitting garment That’s basted they can even mail you a Basically a throwaway fitting If you’re not able to meet with them Personally and really kind of pushing The limits Or the level if you will of made in uh Made in hong kong uh Garments but with as much of that Handwork and integrity as possible and i Have to say They’re doing a great job a lot of my Favorite pieces have really been made by Them recently Because you can’t argue with the price Point i mean eighteen hundred To twenty two hundred dollars for this Level of quality From these qualities of fabrics really Can’t be beat another small detail i’ll Point out here is this milanese Buttonhole right here Again beautiful kind of small detail and Look at how that Just kind of is raised up there with That heavy kind of a Thread that they use and then how that Just almost perfectly kisses together Again small subtle detail but that one Of those small details

That especially on a suit as plain as This uh really sets it apart So this fabric this draper’s 5 star is Really one of my favorites So this draper is 5 star fabric that i Had that charcoal suit made out of i Loved it so much That i decided to have a double-breasted Suit made out of the same fabric but in Navy Here it is this is my first navy Double-breasted suit again we have an Entire video Kind of showcasing the process of having This piece commissioned And i have to say this suit i love I love this suit it feels great i love How it wraps around Your body and just makes you feel really Just i don’t know held by your garment It’s really incredible and again this Heavier weight Draper’s fabric is just absolutely to Die for It’s a beautiful fabric with a great Hand with great drape So this double breasted jacket of course Has a peak lapel It’s six by two which the first number Six is in reference to the total number Of buttons there are And then two references how many buttons Actually button Which you know one two although you know

With a double-breasted jacket you would Really only button this top one Absolutely beautiful jacket and these Trousers again Are cut to be a very high-waisted cut For braces With an inch and three quarters turnips So this suit right here Is one of my favorites now i enjoyed That double breasted suit so much That i said you know why not have the Same thing made In a beautiful heavyweight navy linen And talk about an Absolutely beautiful suit for the Summertime i love this thing And again it’s such a smart look you Know the Visual texture of that navy linen the Schlubbing You know just the hand because it is so Heavy It doesn’t wrinkle too much right which Is one of the things i dislike about Linen Especially in suiting is if it becomes Too kind of frumpled This one really holds its press quite Well because again it’s such a Heavyweight linen Really the exact same make as that other Jacket You know milanese button peak lapel 6×2 High waisted trousers cut for braces

Inch and three quarter turn ups And then of course a double bench in the Back hand button holes All the details that you would really Expect but look at this Absolutely beautiful suit and this is Made From a spence and bryson linen Which if you’re looking to have a linen Suit made i absolutely recommend This is a very heavy i don’t know what The actual cloth weight is It’s easily over 10 ounces and i Wouldn’t be surprised if it’s close to 13. Now joe and david i’ve known for a long Time they were actually my first Bespoke shirt maker but it’s only been Within the last i don’t know five to Six years maybe that they’ve gotten Heavily into suiting And bespoke suiting and really have just Developed an absolutely exceptional Product That i think really approaches full Bespoke now it’s not full bespoke Because the person cutting Uh your pattern isn’t actually taking The measurements But david and formerly joe of course had So much experience and Understood the process so well that they Really could come as close to that As humanly possible without actually you

Know literally bridging that gap Another thing that allows david to Really do Such a great job with the quality is That they have their own collection of Tailors that just work on their own Items So you don’t have any of the Inconsistencies that result With some of the the hong kong work Where you know you really Are sending it to a huge factory but you May not know who exactly is doing the Work or the Same two hands may never touch you know Two of your garments It’s not the case with joe and david and Again they do absolutely beautiful work Up next we’ve got another Double-breasted suit this is made from a Beautiful Gourmet prince of wales fabric so even Though This fabric was originally developed by The prince of wales as a country Fabric it’s really evolved into Something that is very appropriate to Wear in the city This is a very formal very traditional Fabric That of course is very visually Interesting you can see all the visual Detail here Same make as kind of these other two

Suits right here because we kind of Nailed it And i really enjoy that double-breasted Suit And so i said you know what let’s Explore some other fabrics that we can Have this made in And i thought that this really worked Out beautifully You can see this is from the gourmet Royal 11 collection It’s a nice kind of heavier weight cloth That has body it has drape It’s not going to wear out to you Anyways too soon trousers cut Exactly the same high-waisted cut for Braces Beautiful jacket and then i’ve got a Nice semeno godard pocket square in here That i think really works beautifully so Another great suit A suit that whenever i wear this i get Tons of compliments it’s a formal suit I really would love to take this to new York here soon because this suit in new York I mean it’s almost made for the city Okay so those are my suits From the hammer johnny brothers or now David.com Let’s take a look at some of the odd Jackets that i’ve had them make so this Is a simple navy hopsack jacket and one Of the first odd jackets that i had

The hammer johnny brothers make for me This is a simple odd jacket Incredibly versatile now what i like About this fabric as an odd jacket is The visual texture from that hopsack Weave it’s simple navy but it has Incredible Kind of a visual texture here because The weave itself And that to me is one of the most Important hallmarks of a great odd Jacket Is that it has visual texture those odd Jackets that i enjoy the most Really just have nice visual texture and I’ll show you a few of them Kind of as we go through these right Here again the patch pockets make it a More casual Jacket but you can wear it with a tie You can wear it with an open collar You can wear it with a pair of trousers Or you can wear it with pair of Khakis or chinos or even jeans this is One of those fundamental pieces that Every well-dressed man really should Have in their wardrobe up next We have another odd jacket from him or Johnny this Has a little bit of cashmere in it you Can see it has that softer texture It’s kind of a little bit fuzzier Because it doesn’t have as hard as a Finish it’s probably a brushed fabric

This is a window pane a gray with a Little bit of blue And a little bit of black in there also It’s more of a fall winter odd jacket Than it would be a spring summer But very simple kind of two button notch Lapel A great gorge stance right here a great Kind of balance of the lapels itself And a very kind of simple easy to wear a Very versatile all jacket And so this is made with a what the Holland and sherry called their sherry Cash it’s the wool And cashmere jacketing and one of the Other things that you can see here is You know one of the things i like about Joe and the bridge is the very Traditional kind of button stance It’s a very classic kind of timeless Button stance that really is elegant uh And you know of course they can make Anything But their house aesthetic again is Following those classic Principles and proportions that we Really talk a lot about here on this Channel It’s not too short it’s not too long It’s really a jacket That you know as long as you don’t grow Out of it so to say Is something that you can wear for a Long time so next is an odd jacket that

More is more of a summertime odd jacket This is another gourmet cloth a Beautiful gourmet A cloth of woven in england i believe Again simple odd jacket again notch Lapels Single breasted a two button bessem Pockets you know best and flat pockets Right here You know it’s got a little bit of a Window pane pink window pane here On top of a just a simple kind of navy Blue or a blue This is actually acquired this bolt of Fabric independently and sent it to them And i’ve been very happy with this Jacket you can never have too many odd Jackets So this was part of a capsule collection We kind of put together developing more Of a summer odd jacket not trouser Wardrobe This is another gourmet fabric what i Like about this is it’s got linen and Silk into the weave itself and so It has a beautiful visual texture and Detail That you see just because of the linen And silk it’s made with patch pockets Right i’ve got a pocket square stuffed In here that i think works Quite well this is a traditional kind of Window pane This is a navy or a blue with a taupe or

Light brown Window pane there this of the two that i Just showed you Is probably my favorite it’s easier to Wear Because it’s got fewer colors and i just Personally like The visual texture you have here in this Particular cloth from gourmet This is an amazing jacket to wear with Chinos or khakis And our last jacket at least for now is A beautiful eye jacket that i had made For the wintertime this again is made From a gourmet cloth I just really enjoy their cloth they Make absolutely great things And this is an interesting piece again It’s similar To that one twill i showed you from Chris despis it marries the browns And the grays to create a very versatile Jacket that you can wear with your gray Palette and that you can wear with your Brown palette now one of the things i Like about this is look at the beautiful Kind of roll in the lapel here great Knot Notch stance a milanese buttonhole right Here But the cloth has a nice body and Texture to it i mean if you look at it Compared to this jacket That has a hard kind of very smooth

Finish you can see how this Immediately just is a slightly less a Formal more casual jacket because of the Softer finishing Now this is a jacket that i’ve really Enjoyed Kind of getting to know how to wear and Again you can wear it with gray trousers It would again work with what i’m Wearing today You can wear it with browns i’ve worn it Even with a kind of a taupe Colored cavalry twill trouser And so a beautiful piece another detail That is a very Important whenever it comes to our Jackets is pattern matching one of those Small details That if the tailor does it perfectly you Probably never notice But if it is in any way not done well It sticks out like a sore thumb and so If you follow the sleeve down the coat You know really once you get kind of a Foot down into this is really where you See The truth of how well the pattern Matching has been being done And the idea is here is it draws your Eyes in not Out right and so that’s kind of the Principle there and the pattern matching On the back of course is equally Important and the way that this

Is is done can be done in several Different ways With the way that it’s cut you see that It can’t be perfectly linear Up and down and so the tailor really has To make a decision as to where It’s going to spread and kind of come Together and so you can see Kind of how those panels are cut but Again perfect and then also kind of Lining up on the collar Not quite as visible on this hanger Because it kind of distorts it a little Bit But if i pull that up you can see that That really is quite well matched kind Of across the collar so there we are That’s my wardrobe of kind of bespoke Suits and odd jackets i’ve got many odd Trousers also maybe we’ll film another Video about those if you’d like to see That let me know in the comments section Below One note is that this wardrobe has Really been built Over the last 13 15 years You know to build a wardrobe takes time We have a lot of videos about how to Build a wardrobe But you should start with those Fundamentals the navies the grays Layer in some odd jackets then get into The kind of the seasons so spring summer Kind of fall winter

And at that point you know you really Kind of build out a wardrobe that’s Classic it’s beautiful it allows you to Enjoy dressing seasonally Also and so that’s one of the things That i’ve enjoyed over the last kind of Three years Is focusing on building those seasonal Components to my Otherwise a fundamental wardrobe and you Know there we have it so If you have any questions about any of These garments please let me know in the Comments section below We’ll actually post a list of all of the Garments we covered in this video in the Description So check that out and if you enjoyed These videos you know make sure you take A look at the other Videos that we have on this youtube Channel where we go visit with other Tailors From all around the world and hear about How they approach Their craft i’m kirby allison and i love To help the well-dressed acquire and Care for their wardrobes While exploring the world of quality Craftsmanship and tradition Thanks for watching