Private Tour Of Savile Row Tailors Dege & Skinner | Kirby Allison

[Music] This is ground zero it’s beautiful I think that humanity is actually what Gives life to the garment right i mean If everything was just made exactly the Same way you know that would be a Machine made garment [Music] That’s a stout garment So what’s the story behind this this is A customer i’ve worked with for many Years now and he has fortunate he has His own herd of sheep there’s a lot of flack of sheep yes [Music] Ah william so nice to see you and you Yeah thank you for having me back back Welcome back i have to say it’s been too Long since i’ve been safe travels you Know it’s been brilliant yeah you know I’m over here i’ve got beautiful proper British weather you know well we tried To a little bit of rain A little bit of san american friends Here so uh you know anything different And it wouldn’t feel right i thought That on this video Of course we could talk a little bit About kind of dj’s rich history i mean It’s one of the oldest bespoke tailoring Houses on the row i think clocking in at What number 18 1865 1865. unbelievable So it’s 100 over 150 years yup and then You’re the fifth generation

Family member uh to be running the firm So i mean in the in the kind of the Paragon of savile robe bespoke tailoring Houses i mean deige is one of the oldest But it’s also one of the few of that age To um still be under family management That’s right um so yes in 1865 the A german immigrant came over Called john jacob dager And that’s where the deej name came from And still the same spelling as it was Then He actually came over 10 years before The business was founded And then got into tailoring and then Found the business in 1865 And his um son and my great Great grandfather Went to merchant taylor’s school Together wow and their fathers were Obviously tailors And because they were both tailors they Got on together at school And then after leaving school and they Became good friends at school but after Leaving school there was no place for Their To go into their respective family Businesses so they actually set up on Their own really started a business Called arthur deigen skinner okay which Lasted for a little while um until sadly My great-grandfather was killed in a Riding accident oh really

And he was um he was only 42 and he left A young son aged 14 15 he was my Grandfather And then the deej family kindly Took over my grandfather’s education for The next few years and Then once he’d finished that they took Him out of school and put him into the Into the business business Pretty much he he learned how to Cut and tailor on his own fruition and Developed his own Ways and means of doing it yeah um and There were still djs in the business Yeah um and he learned a lot about How to treat tailors um fairly because i Don’t think they got the sort of the Best rub in those days it’s really quite Dickensian yeah so he believed in in As a cutter giving a bundle of uh or a Job to the coke maker Neatly neatly presented so when you Opened it it would it would be there and Understandable for the coat maker to Pick it up and and crack on well that Tradition really kind of continues Through today because you always see the Tailors you know they very neatly roll Up and bundle But it was also his way of [Music] Increasing Productivity by making The coat maker’s life easier because if

They had to go through lots of different Things and sort of scrabble around They wouldn’t like it yeah they’re on Pieceworks they need to get cracking Yeah and they’re earning money yeah and He always always believed that you know We were responsible putting food on Their table yeah um and the theory and The practice still goes on today yeah That’s great you know kind of in your Mind’s eye as someone who of course is At the head of one of the most Prestigious bespoke tailoring houses Here at the um you know really at the At the center at the epicenter of Bespoke tailoring on savile row What do you think really defines and Differentiates true bespoke As you still find here today on savile Row I mean you’re right bespoke has been um Taken by a lot of other professions and Trades to make bespoke doesn’t mean Anything In a way it’s diluted it um but we sort Of therefore tend to refer to ourselves As with bespoke tailors on savile row And that sort of just concentrates it a Bit and it sort of gives it a bit more Impetus bit more Knowledge about it bit more strength of Dna about it but that whole process of Making something for someone the bespoke Process it’s an individual process

And the fact that we do it all here on Site here that you know the customer has Their own pattern made um after the Measurements and they go through a Series of fittings Um the coat makers and the trouser Makers um the majority of you know work Here in the premises So the the conduit between the cutter And the coke maker is very very strong So we’ve talked about what we do here Yeah but it’s now as the proof of proof Of it is to show you around yeah that’d Be great fancy coming behind the scenes And i’d love to see what what goes on my Favorite part And what we have uh down here is tom Who’s our head shirt cutter And he’s been here for 10 11 years and learnt from a gentleman Called robert whittaker Who retired a couple of years ago okay And robert was um Was tom’s master and was able to pass on His shirt cutting skills to tom And um you know tom travels to america Now and he’s doing a great job Um with everything and um You know is is an embodiment of What robert used to do yeah yeah keeping The trade alive i mean it’s certainly Shrinking Uh Quite a lot from what it was when bob

Was probably my age yeah so it’s nice to Keep the skill going yeah hopefully one Day teach More than one people over my lifetime Would certainly be would certainly be Good to try and expand the trade again Yeah what are the two or three kind of Characteristics or criteria that you Look at In a really perfectly fitting bespoke Shirt Oh See i think it has got to be Obviously the basic things like your Collar the way it sits um And the shape there’s nothing worse than When you get a collar and the points are Curling under or they’re far too long You’ve got Kind of collar stays and things like That but then in some ways the Sprezzatura look it’s quite a charming Look Um when it’s kind of got no collarbones And it does float but only certain People can pull that off pull that off Yes i’m a big proponent of collar stays Yes um and then sleeve lengths as well Which is also a good reason why It works in here working alongside the Tailors if someone’s having both Garments made here it works well Together rather than having an argument Going all my shirt sleeves are fine it’s

Just suits sleeves and Vice versa so it works very well we work Together yeah And then it’s just general fit around The body which is Down to everyone’s preference it’s kind Of Our style is your style yeah some people Come in and generally do want a full Fitting shirt but that doesn’t mean it Can’t be clean In terms of upper body on the chest It can still be a nice neat fit it’s Just a person doesn’t like anything too Too tight likewise advising someone who Does want it Very slim It’s it’s my kind of job to also say Look there’s a difference between having A slim fitted shirt having a sausage Skin yeah where it looks great if you Look in front of the mirror but the Second you actually try and do anything Practical it’s just yeah i think that’s The big difference in bespoke versus Ready to wear is that from a traditional Ready to wear perspective Unless you went really slim fit it’s the Only way that you can get away of all That excess and kind of have it lay at Least a little bit cleanly but a bespoke Shirt as you were saying and it’s a very Interesting point is that even if it’s Quite generous through the waist you

Know here through kind of the top of the The shoulders and kind of the breast you Can still have it lie flat and clean yes Exactly which is which is all part of Why we’re here as well and the other Thing is if you have a More robust gentleman quite a big Gentleman when they sit down obviously Everything expands So it’s also trying to fit around that Yeah so it’s you’re almost trying to Hide cloth that needs to be there So that’s when the kind of pattern work Comes out you might put panels in it and Things like that we’ve had customers in The past that particularly want a huge Collar they don’t like anything touching Their neck i always remember my boss Robber turned around and said we’ll Happily do it for you as well here it’s Bespoke but don’t tell anyone where you Got it because it looks awful But it is all part of the part of the Job we It’s down to us advising the customer But also Being there for their wants and needs And things like that i think really to Take full advantage of the bespoke Relationship there has to be A trust given in the tailor and it’s got To be a relationship that goes back and Forth I mean anyone could walk in and just

Tell someone exactly what they want you Could take orders but to really fully Experience Uh the bespoke process you know i feel Like one you know Not Doesn’t defer but certainly um you know Takes uh the recommendations of their Bespoke tailor or bespoke shirt maker Because That’s their profession i mean you Wouldn’t go to a doctor and tell them What medicines you wanted there’s a Psychobiotic relationship you know a Customer will put their trust in tom to Make them a beautiful shirt but also They have to you know some some Customers have Quite strong egos yeah and you know Trying to Trying to sort of comfort that ego To a certain extent say well this would Work better for you and and working Together on it um that’s Part of the part of the challenge Sometimes is Fitting the body is okay but some Sometimes you gotta yeah well fit up There which there’s psychology which is Not the Can be the harder bit sometimes yeah There’s no bigger compliment either than When we are traveling or especially last Year during lockdown we had some very

Good customers that got in contact and Said look i need some more shirts uh Just pick me out a dozen Just going off the back of kind of stuff That i had last time And it is a massive compliment that they Install all that trust into you yeah but There’s nothing worse because if they Came in they could have probably picked Out those 12 in 10 minutes if that but You’re thinking so much going on would He like that uh he would like he’s had Something similar and going through all These bunch you think he’s just Installed all his trust so He might go oh that’s that’s a bit out There for me but if tom thinks that Looks good on me let’s give it a go There’s nothing worse than if I always say to a customer when they’re Ramming an eye and about a shirt they go Well i’m going bespoke so i might do Something a bit different It’s all it’s all well and good but i’d Rather you always want to wear my shirts I don’t want it hung up in a wardrobe Again oh i wish i hadn’t got that Because i never never really wear it Yeah it just becomes a waste i want you To open your wardrobe door and go oh all The shirts at tom made me at these are In the cleaners yeah Why aren’t they here i need to order More or things like that

I want them to be Confident because it is a confidence Thing like i heard you saying earlier When you’ve got everything to a t You could be walking into a really Important business meeting And it’s something that’s already your Confidence is gained In yourself and it’s easy and if if a Customer has that without thinking about It It’s even better yeah that is the zenith Of the spoke and a true testament to the Relationship that of course you all have With your customer that You know let’s be honest has been earned Uh over you know kind of over the years And over the decades and you know that Is a uh that’s a huge testament to kind Of what you guys do but i think also When you’ve built up that relationship Um If you want to spend a long time Choosing selecting things You can do yeah or if you haven’t got Much time you come in Um i had one one customer in new york Once it was in the room for 90 seconds And ordered um just long enough to Register his credit card number and um I was with a customer at the same time i Said would you just excuse me for a Minute Someone else coming up he won’t be too

Long yeah and anyways customer came in Dozen white shirts thank you be back Next year i’d laid out a couple of Swatches for him they said yeah i’ll Have three of those three of those three Of those and three of those Um i said fine same style same size yep That’s fine everything fits perfectly Um should we send them to the office When done yep fine thank you Thank you very much cheerio Very new york yes very new york well It’s one of the things i think that Again Is often overlooked is that You know One of the Beautiful byproducts of the bespoke Relationship is the simplification right Is that you know you don’t have to worry About the fit you know you know that the Shirt is gonna fit perfectly and that if You order 12 more they’re gonna fit just Like the last 12. You go to your tailor you know he’s got Your measures you know of course you go Through the fitting process but you know That everything’s going to fit perfectly You know whereas if you’re buying off The rack you’re at the whims of Fashion designers of how’s the shirt Gonna fit this season or you have an Incredible shirt that fits you off the Rack perfectly

But then you know it changes next year And um i think you reach a certain point Where you just don’t have the time to Spend you know shopping and i don’t know A single man that enjoys shopping i Certainly don’t and My wife does but i don’t think most men Do and being able to again have that Bespoke relationship totally eliminates That And then really transitions it into Something that men do enjoy which is the Experience the relationship uh and then Really at the end of the day the product Yes exactly it’s almost like a fine line Between Becoming a friendship as well because You get to know so much about them you Kind of almost Uh interview them on what you do what Sort where would you be wearing the Shirt What what’s The role in terms of are you thinking a Bit more casual were you going really Quite formal you’re going to be wearing It with a tie and things like that so You get to know quite a lot about the Person and it’s also remembering that When they next come in because you don’t Want to be kind of starting again and Then then thinking oh well i want the Same as last you think well i don’t know Is

People want to be pampered as well and That’s part of the the pampering process That you remember yeah what they had Last night some people Are shocked when they walk and walk in You remember their names gee how do you Do that i went well it’s just Part of what we do well you’re an Important part of our our business right And even if you remember something from Five years ago ten years ago as to what They had yeah they go gee that’s that’s Well remembered that so It’s it’s it’s part of the sort of you Know that process yeah great wow well Thank you so much i have to ask so Before we leave what is this i mean i Love this miniature Right here can you talk at all about That so i i think we we were talking Earlier about making the wedding uniform For prince harry yeah well this one here Is the page boys uniform and there was Four page boys at the wedding okay um And Yes we had to make make the four of them Yeah um well prince george was a page Wasn’t he i mean is this This is actually a replica of the one That we made for him And one way because there’s four page Boys they’re all relatively the same Size okay And if you’ve got four similar uniforms

With children who’s gonna be in Yeah they’re gonna pick the wrong one Aren’t they yeah so we put their Initials Embroidered initials oh really on the on The shoulder straps there my shoulder Boards so that’s good It was just you know identification Purposes It’s literally just a scaled-down Version of the grown-up one Well thank you tom so much for sharing Very much and what it is you do and uh You know as always i’m in awe of The craft so thank you no no i promise Any sign Why don’t we continue should we go on Through the country yeah well i’d love To that’s uh the bespoke suit cutting Yes Bespoke shirt where the magic happens Right so here we are kirby this is the The nerve center of the business this is Where all the cutting gets done okay and We just come into the cutting room And here we’ve got tristan hello tristan Nice to see you Yeah thank you tristan’s been with us For 15 years 15 But um tristan’s uh working on a on a on A coat at the moment that’s been fitted And now going through the process of

Marking it up so this is after first Fitting so after first fitting it says The shell shell fitting without the Pockets in Um just as the customer’s shapes change Slightly we’ve adjusted the pattern a Little bit so you want to recheck Balance so you’ve got the paper pattern There that you kind of take the measures Back to paper pattern with a record of Everything he’s had before different Styles uh all the little adjustments his Preferences or what we’ve seen the Fittings So we we’re ripping and smoothing this So we’re taking out Um All the side seams the base the fronts Will stay in but it’ll get Made completely flat pattern will get Laid back on okay all the adjustments Will be amended to this and then i’ll go Back to the tailor to be put back Together okay yeah this beautiful kind Of nailhead Fabric darkness that’s a lovely cloth Right up my alley Um this was a this is actually a fabric That we had woven for our 150th Anniversary okay it’s 11 12 ounce uh Will worsted and a little bit of cash Around that so is this a a two button or Three button it’s a three button code Okay um a nice sort of slim lapel as

Well which is what the customer’s after Yeah so the beauty of bespoke is that of Course personal choice have that Personal choice Uh and then if you don’t mind i mean can You flip it onto the other side and just Show us the canvas I always love to see i mean this is as You said kind of the backbone Of the bespoke garment it’s the bit you Never see it’s the hidden bin but that’s Where a lot of the work goes in the the Structure in creating the chest And the form of the code this customer Has quite prominent chest it’s about Building that shape in Making sure the bridle’s on nice and Tight so it helps throw that cloth over The over the chest That’s great yeah but if you look at the The regularity of the stitching there You know When you look closer it’s Very even very natural very flowing yeah Um But you just don’t get to see it Unfortunately yeah but it’s a One of the unfortunate it’s like with The watch you know with the crystal back You almost wish that you know there was Some way to you know be able to see all That beautiful work because all the hand Work you know on a garment like this is Really hidden from eye

But it’s what you know carries the Garment forward all integral and yeah Yeah well great well thank you so much You know i love seeing cutting boards i Mean it’s This is i mean this is the epicenter of Bespoke tailoring right here well Of maintained that you know the pattern That’s on the board there That’s the blueprint that’s sort of uh That’s very important to our business Without that pattern That holds all the history of of what Someone’s shape is doing yeah what you Want what you’ve done in the past and And without that information to hand to Draft that every single time you’re not Keeping continuity going so there’s no Consistency and um you know that is you Know A valuable Part of the business how long can you Keep a paper pattern going before You know it’s got to be redrafted or Something i mean that i’m sure it varies From client to client but if if there’s A lot of weight change and um you know Once you’ve got bits added on all the Time it gets the point of you know let’s Just draft a new pattern from that Um or if the pattern’s been used a lot Then it can get a bit worn so it’s sort Of to get the clearer lines on it rather Than losing any definition yeah then you

Can just you know draft another one Copying copying that one but otherwise i Mean years if not longer Yeah yeah Yeah Keep a record of the old patterns as Well so if customers body shape just Change again we’ve got a record of where They carry the weight or lose the weight And you’ve got that history there yeah Well that um That history i mean that uh that Information really is incredible Yeah it’s a very good reference point as Well and you refer back to it all the Time yeah and um it’s great to sort of Be able to take it out to the customer When he comes into the shop and sort of You sort of flick through it and say Would you remember this oh i remember That one yes well it’s a true testament To the precision of the craft i mean of Course you know You know you still have to fit all the Garments because every fabric drapes Differently but i mean there’s a real Precision To the craft here that is practiced you Know the proper bespoke tailoring house I mean that pattern to us is like a last To a shoemaker Very similar principle yeah Brilliant yeah it’s one of the things i Feel that took me a while to really

Fully understand Is that the handwork wasn’t for the sake Of handwork right i mean it wasn’t uh Yeah Um but you know the handwork really Evolved To make the garment durable Right and that in turn gives a bespoke Garment its longevity And also coupled with the fact in the Days gone by fabrics used to be A lot heavier Um So they were like 20 ounces 22 ounces Sometimes for riding clothes they went Up to 32 36 ounces in weight so they Were very bulky fabrics so the fabrics Quite often Outlasted some of the stitching you know You know if you ride using a hunting Coat or riding coat it’s going through a Lot of You know excess energy being put through To it so The fabric did last and went on for you Know could last for a couple of Generations Back at the tailoring house you know for For alterations or repairs and very much So yes and my father always used to say That the The alterations that we did here used to Pay for the rent oh really okay yeah That’s interesting things have changed a

Little bit since then but rents are gone Up oh yes exactly yeah Yeah well whenever i think of savile row I mean again one of the things i think That’s quite unique about the street of Course is that there are many tailors Many bespoke tailors But every single tailoring house kind of Has their own Place Within the ecosystem of kind of bespoke Tailors i mean every tailor has a little Bit of a different house cut a little Bit Of a different perspective that’s Informed by their history So we’re sitting here in front of these You know kind of beautiful uh displays Here and i thought maybe you could share A little bit about you know deeja’s cut How would you describe that right um And then how is that informed by you Know you know these other beautiful kind Of military garments that you have Behind us So i think a lot of Tailors had a specific Role initially Some just made uniforms some made Sporting clothes And we as a business start off as making Riding clothes polo clothes hunting Outfits a lot of britches we were known As the britches maker in the sort of

Late 1800s Um And we also made uniforms which a lot of Other tailors did do But as times went on we we maintained Those skills to make certain those two Items of clothing And because of that that certainly has Influenced our Our our civilian style of claims that You and i are standing up in Um And military uniforms and riding clothes Tend to be cut a little bit differently They’re a more fitted uniform So if we look at that yeah that uniform There which is a an army mess kit which Is unifor Usually that would be like black that Would be like black tie for black tie Tuxedo Um And it’s a very close fitting gum it’s Also very short garment And the leg garment they wear are called Overalls and they’re very tight fitting They’re almost skin tight they have a Stripe down the side to differentiate What regiment they come to But in those days A lot of army officers were on horseback So they had to ride in it so hence Having tight trousers And a short coat so when you’re in the

Saddle you still look smart you look Smart but you didn’t have lots of cloth Around you so that sort of the shortness Of the coat that’s sort of born from You know a long time tradition that Still holds today and you still make These and we still make them yeah yeah We still gotta go down to sandhurst and Make uniforms for the young officer Cadets But it has influenced our sort of house Style And the fact that We tend to give our chest and shoulder Line a bit more structure okay um and Also the waist is A little bit more Tapered in and also a bit more flair in The skirt to highlight the the riding History of the business yeah so it’s Sort of it’s subtle Differences and innuendos that you know Have influenced um Our civilian clothes making and would You describe it i mean we’ve had an Opportunity on this trip to meet with Several tailors and one of the things we Even talked about is you know how the Cloth is laid out on the canvas whether Or not it’s like a plus seven for like a You know a drape cut you know or you Know whether or not it’s just kind of Straight up and down for something more Structured

You know Where where do you guys lay on that Spectrum Well we we tend to put a little work Into the into the canvassing of the coat Okay with the different layers okay um And each coat maker has their own way of Canvassing um And it’s where you you learn your sort Of The sort of nimbleness with the needle And that sort of repetition and sort of You know to the extent you do it with Your eyes closed yeah and it’s that sort Of neat pad work that As i think i said before no one ever Sees unfortunately it gives that it’s Critical to the government yeah it is And You know some coke makers will put a lot Of work into that Just to create that extra Shape and And form for the body Um So yes and then you know an experienced Cutter Will look at a coat and be able to tell Which coke maker had made it by subtle Sort of yeah Stitching every coat maker has their Kind of signature right because it is a Handmade product it is yeah right and i Think that’s something i mean ultimately

They’re making clothes for the For the house that has its style and and Shape and and form about it yeah so There is Um a slight degree of uh Influence from that point of view but Yes because it’s handmade there are yeah Each person has a slightly different way I think that humanity is actually what Gives life to the garment right exactly Versus if it was totally i mean if you Had no I mean if everything was just made Exactly the same way you know that would Be a machine made garment you know with No life and i think that um that Is very flat yes exactly well and so Um so are you i mean so talk a little Bit more about some of these other Beautiful garments i mean if you don’t Mind um I mean that’s Incredible i mean the fact that you guys Are still making that today is really Astounding it’s one of the things i love About great britain is that there’s no Shortage of traditional Well it’s wonderful that we’ve been uh Very proud of it we maintained the Skills to be able to do it And sort of created a which is no small Task i mean i can only imagine what goes Into a garment like that it takes five Years to train someone to be a

Copenhagen really um but that that Particular Garment Um was made as a uh sample For a regiment the two regiments had Come together formed a new one and they Were taking bits the coat from one Regiment the waistcoat from another Regiment and making subtle differences Changes to it Um and that was made as a pre-production Sample which was then approved by the Regiment um That actually sat in the um Vna oh really the victorian Victorian abbot in 2015 i believe Um In a exhibition for six months called The art of luxury yeah um Which was good i mean it just sort of Highlighted what what can be done yeah Well this stuff is still done today it’s Still relevant Yeah what about this one in the corner Right there it looks like another Um kind of mess so that’s that’s another Mess kit um for a officer in the foot Guards okay and Yes it’s not as ornate as as that one There There’s a lot more embroidery and you Know Gold you know gold teat studs and lace Work on it

That’s far very much more basic and then That uniform there the green one That’s um That’s being made for a Um a member of the queen’s bodyguard in Scotland really which is called the Royal company of archers wow um and That’s something we’ve been doing was It’s quite a recent commission we’ve Probably been doing it for 20 years now Really and um You know we do travel up to edinburgh And see them up there a lot of them live Down here yeah but it’s you know It suits our business very well the fact That we got the skills to be able to do It um And you know it can lead on to other Other businesses as well yeah well I mean you know the fact that you guys Have the skills to do it i mean you guys Have been recognized by the queen you Have a royal warrant Uh am i that’s correct yes um we’ve held That for A number of years now since the sort of Early 80s and that’s for making the Uniforms for the queen’s bodyguard in London in london Okay um we make the officers tail coats Which is a Beautiful scarlet tail coat with Embroidery on the collar and cuffs yeah And then we also make the yeoman’s

Uniforms which To the untrained eyes like a bee feeders Outfit um The yeomen are based at buckingham Palace and the b feet is the base of the Tower of london so they have two two Areas No but to the untrained eye They look the same What about i mean so you’re working with The royal household i mean any members Of the royal family that you guys work With also We were very fortunate to have um Made william and harry’s uniforms when They went into the army okay um and then Subsequently when harry got married to Meghan markle um what was that 2016. Yeah anyway um We were asked to make his wedding Uniform which is the frock coat of the Blues and royals And then we also made the page pageboy Uniforms Which were a scaled-down version of what Harry was wearing And that was that was certainly a a Challenge in itself because it’s it’s Quite a ornate uniform the Embellishments on the sleeves Goes up quite high And the collar is quite high so on a Little chaps uniform who’s about You know that high

It just has to have to be scaled down And they grow they grow out of it in Three months yeah Fascinating well i mean the military Garments i find are such a unique Element of just the dna of british Tailoring i mean you’ve spoken a lot About you know these kind of historical Military garments um but we’ve got this Beautiful absolutely stunning Double-breasted flannel chalk stripe Right there Can you talk a little bit maybe more Specifically about how You know maybe this military These military garments influence that Or just pointing out you know some of The um the details of your cut so Certainly over the course of time the The military uniforms have had an Influence on our civilian clothing and If we look at this this double-breasted Jacket here Um And comparing it to the mess jacket There the way it’s very Shaped in the waist you have A lovely bit of shape there Little bit of skirt over there But it does highlight the The way that um the influence has Happened what you can’t see Or feel Is the construction that goes into the

Chest but if you feel this is a highly Constructed Chest And that’s what i’d call our our Traditional Make Um obviously being bespoke tailors If someone doesn’t want it as Structured Then we can you know change it so it’s Certainly not a drape cut i mean this is More structured it’s not a drag yeah but A lot of people want that structure to Look to it nice and clean through the Chest Um And that’s what it’s awesome Holes are done by hand yeah um And subtle influences like A turn back cuff Something you’ll only find bespoke Exactly Yeah now talk a little bit about um just Also kind of the darts the panels is the Three panel garment like do you do a Side panel So So to to create that that shape Historically Um To in our civilian clothes we use a side Body which allows you know an extra Scene to to get more shape into Um

And that can be you know adjusted Accordingly to To someone’s natural figure You know sometimes people ask us to be Magicians and yes you know create shape Where there’s not necessarily shape There yeah um and one of one of the Things are the same is that you know We’ll make you close but what we won’t Do is highlight Some of your your figure your natural Figuration yeah we can camouflage it to A certain extent well there’s a good Question i mean what do you think the Ultimate goal is of A bespoke cutter whenever he’s you know Drafting that pattern i mean of course It’s to make the client look good Right and make him look his best yeah But if you were to add words to that how Would you describe it Um I i’ve sort of i would use the word Stature In one breath Because whatever we’re making for Someone it will hopefully generate a Self of You know self Filling um fulfillment and therefore Because they know they’re looking smart Um they will stand out from a crowd and Therefore it will give them An unconscious subconscious yeah kind of

Stature boost of confidence you know I mean i always feel better whenever i’m Properly i’ve got a proper shave i’m Dressed up in a Well proper suit you know wearing a tie And a this is a great feature to do that Um Shoes of course well of course Of course um but also what finishes off Um a bespoke suit is to have a bespoke Shirt okay now that’s something that Here at dejan skinner we do have our Own in-house bespoke shirt making um Operation and it works is quite very Well yeah It is um It is we’re we were the first firm in Savarou to have that really um and that Was 30 odd years ago really wow so and It goes through a similar process as the Bespoke clothing does You know measurements we make a sample Shirt adjustments are made of the Pattern Um and then and then it goes on from There yeah and obviously with like Bespoke tailoring the choices you can Have with Collar styles which is probably the most Important thing On a shirt because that’s that’s what You see Underneath the jacket and if someone’s Wearing a waistcoat then you don’t see

Much of it but the you know the choices Of what people can have yeah are far and Wide well and it really all has to kind Of work together i mean the the collar And the shirt you know really does have To work in concert with Uh the um the suit and the better that They are kind of coordinated of course The better the entire look and it Certainly works very well on our trunk Shows to the states um When we travel the sort of Across the breadth of the country and um You know we do have Uh a lot of customers that will come in They will start off as a shirt customer Um and then they will migrate on to Having bespoke suits and vice versa and It’s a single relationship right i mean Single relationship obviously there’s Um from our point of view there’s Different cutters involved in it and It’s a Unique skill to be a shirt Master shirt cutter yeah and also a suit Cutter yeah totally different but but it Does work very very very well handing Glove yeah um and people can put outfits Together combinations together of course Um And you know The person who’s busy Can come in and do Shirts and suits together without having

To go to two different locations yeah do You find yourself cutting more Double-breasted suits these days than Single-breasted or is that does that ebb And flow over the years i mean you’ve Been at this for so long three decades I mean does that like all things and i Think here i am standing in a Double-breasted suit and there’s a Double-breasted one there Um but actually we make more Single-breasted suits these days yeah I’ve really found myself enjoying you Know there’s two kind of current Iterations to my tutorial journey one is More double-breasted jackets but the Other one that’s just been really Just eye-opening is having high-waisted Trousers cut for braces with proper Allowance in the waistband Has been just life-changing i would i Would agree with you i’ve always been Used to having high-cut trousers with a Fishtail back Um And it’s if you’re wearing a three-piece Suit i don’t think you can wear it Without that yeah Really traditionally yeah and they are Actually quite comfortable they might be Cut A bit higher up in the body which seems A bit alien to people But because they’re supported by braces

Suspenders They’re allowed to hang More naturally Because they’re not being held up by Pulling in at the waist with a belt or a Side of justice they’re allowed to to Hang and the the fall of the trouser Um Looks better at the end of the day Well you know i think that uh there’s Two things one One of the things i really appreciate About braces or trousers cut for braces Is that you know if you put your cell Phone in your pocket or you have your Hands in your pockets you know all of a Sudden your trousers aren’t sagging down Because of the weight because again it’s Hanging from the shoulders with the Braces and you know that’s how it hangs And the second thing that i’ve i guess The more bespoke tailors i’ve gotten to Know and i think this is a huge Um you know endorsement for this Particular style of cut is that most Bespoke tailors that have been in this Trade for a long time all have their Trousers cut high-waisted for braces It’s just The simple truth of the matter We understand it yeah um but also i mean Also you know when we got an older an Older older man um As a customer then

It it the the the concept having brace Top trousers is less alien yeah than to A younger man in his 30s who has maybe Only worn jeans in his life um and the Concept of wearing something that’s sort Of two or three inches above where You’re used to wearing your your Trousers Can be a bit alien but once once you’ve Discussed it and gone you know had the Conversation And um And and and they try it Then they’re you know it’s very Difficult to go back to yeah i’ve got a Good friend that always says that um You know a properly made suit should be The most comfortable garment you own And i think that you know braces cut Well so that it fits it’s not Restrictive high armholes Um you know Incredible cloth Uh you know whenever i put a suit and Tie on it’s in fact the most comfortable Thing i own not the least and that’s a Common misperception I feel of a lot of people that might be Getting into bespoke tailor and you’re Just Uh you know wearing suits for the first Time but i think also that um You know there is the traditional side Of the business you know the three-piece

Suit with the fishtail trousers Um That is part of it but you’ve also you Know you’re remembering the traditions But you’ve also got to Cater for today’s needs Today’s styles um and what What people feel comfortable in Um Now that’s You know i think you have to do it Otherwise you can become a bit Too a bit too traditional yeah you’re Going to be arctic um no you’ve got to Keep with with modern times and Certainly over the years the the advent Of much lighter fabrics to make seats From Um That’s very prevalent certainly in the States you know bespoke taylor can Certainly kind of school one uh in their Satorial journey to kind of bring them Along but at that same time as you said Everything is handmade for the client so Someone wants Flat-fronted trousers with no pleats and A particular style of jacket i mean you Guys are making everything for the Client you can do it that’s that’s why People come to us and you know we have a Number of customers who who like Changing and trying Different styles as time goes on

You know their their figure might change They’ll feel more comfortable in a Different style so You know it does it’s a pretty sort of Progressive relationship um there’s no Hard and fast rule about it yeah And We we Were adaptable to To the clients customers requirements Needs what they wear the out clothing For where they’re going to wear it And that sort of harks back to Providing a service to To the individual that’s one of the i Think the most often overlooked Uh aspects of a truly rich bespoke Tailoring relationship is that it is in Fact a relationship Right that is you know that has Developed over years or decades And so as a client’s kind of Life you know just evolves you know that Bespoke tailoring relationship is there To evolve with him in a lot of ways kind Of support that stylistically I remember when i was a when i was Growing up as a wee lad and listening to Listening to my father’s stories of what Happened during the day or On his travels and he used to talk about Names you know he used to mention you Know good friend the people who had Become good friends

And then when i started traveling to America um I was taking care of These people that he’d be i’d heard been Mentioned yeah when we were sitting Around the dinner table yes so to Actually sort of When i met them for the first time i Felt i already know them knew them yeah Because of how my father had talked so Effectuative of the relationships he had Built up over the years how long have You been traveling to america uh not you But maybe the firm and Uh 1964. really you first went out there Yeah it’s amazing and it’s sort of Has carried on since then yeah yeah yeah That’s brilliant yeah well i’m sure Everyone’s looking forward to you guys Coming back to america here well i think I’m remembering i think the feeling is Mutual in that front yeah now very much Looking forward to going across the pond And Shaking hands with with old friends and And um acquaintances yeah that’s right [Music] So coming back here kirby um you Remember nick yes nick Nice to see you again yeah pleasure our Head cutter okay and um Looks like he’s been doing some trouser Work today that’s right yes someone’s uh Gained a little weight over lockdown

Well you know it’s gone uh One of either way either You really leaned out and trimmed up or You gained weight i don’t think anyone Uh escaped a lockdown at this weighing In the same weight that they did Whenever they entered it But uh yeah we’re here to help with that Bit so uh yeah okay and how long have You been cutting here i’ve been here Just over 20 years wow so yes And one of the things you were saying Earlier is that um That all of the the cutters here i mean You you’re trained in both the Military delivery and the civilians That’s right yes as a company we are Quite diverse in what we make um on a Day-to-day basis so yeah we need that Knowledge and training and to make all These things whether it be Wow look at that this will help to Highlight what nick was saying This is incredible let’s get this for And this is the Uniform worn by the Yeoman of the yeoman of the garden Incredible and this is still made Bespoke here today just like it would Have been 100 years ago it is same Pattern same style Um and when you see the The bee feeders In

The tower of london This is essentially the same uniform Okay but these guys are based at Buckingham palace where is i mean how Does the history for this pass down i Mean is it just totally oral or do you Guys have an archive of kind of all the Details of how All these uniforms are Kept elsewhere and they will reuse where Possible Obviously when when Uniforms come to the end of their Natural life then A new one has to be made or If someone is like this gentleman is a Bit shorter than others Yeah And nick wasn’t this a bit of a Challenge it was this one it’s usually Size wise that we have to make these new And he is particularly short so to get All these badges in was quite tight as You look at some of the other ones in Various pictures you’ll find there’s More spacings and stuff like that so We’ve had to adapt it yeah a little just Because of size what’s particularly Challenging about cutting something like This i mean it’s such a unique garment i Mean whenever you’re Cutting this and drafting the pattern And even maybe the construction You know what are some of the most

Challenging bits Most these aren’t too bad because these Are They’ve Lived a life in uniform so they’re quite Easy to work with on that these are Different there is a lot of ruching Drawing in and stuff like that so it’s Not an everyday garment that we do Or any other tailor would do so it does Take a little bit of a while fortunately We have a very skilled coat-making team And they have prolific notes on what They’ve done in the past as well but Cutting wise we just go back and it just Takes a little bit of thought sometimes More than others but we’re here Because we can do these things and we’re Here for a challenge and stuff like that So whether it be a uniform or Something more for civilian we certainly Don’t shy away from anything yeah Beautiful i feel the stiffness of this Collar i mean it’s something else it’s Yeah it’s not it’s not gonna You might wilt in the hot temperature Yes this isn’t good but that’s not good Yeah we’ll keep you standing up straight But it also um you know what we do here As a company the cutters are Both trained in making Uniforms have the ability to cut Uniforms Um in addition to the civilian work

How do those inform each other i mean is That Does the uniform work keep you sharp in The civilian stuff i think so yeah i Think certainly the measuring and Working on the road we need to be Precise with our measures for that first Stage so many measures and much Information we can get from a new Customer helps us a lot and that comes From Maybe not seeing the customer as much on The military side and stuff like that The amount of where the belts need to Sit and how precise that waste seam Needs to be and it does it translates That’s a natural thing way that we Measure so it’s a natural way we never Measure for our civilian customers so it Does keep it nice and sharp and precise What are some of the more challenging Garments you cut One of these um there’s various i mean There’s so many things we’ve done i’ve Made brocade silk Tuxedos yeah which is a quite a unique Material for us to adapt to um There’s all sorts of dumps This is quite a unique one and was Probably quite a challenge to To this thing Do you want to move the other one oh Please yeah i don’t know This is um

Yeah let’s go somewhere that’s a stout Garment So what’s the story behind this i mean This is something many years now and he Has fortunate well he has his own herd Of sheep there’s a flock of sheep black Jeeps He has his own flock of sheep which he Has his own wall woven from and over the Past few years has had Various designs of wool made and this Happens to be this year’s one Um i’ve already made an overcoat for him But he needed a shooting suit so so this Is like a problem That’s right it’s going to have So it’s got your knickers in there Goodness gracious then this is going to Be what we call a post-boy waistcoat so It’s got the waist seam in there And this is just a scene that’s gonna be Yeah this is just a baste at this stage It’s gonna have a flap in there and it’s A bit more of a country waistcoat rather Than your traditional sort of thing i Mean this would keep you warm it’s it’s Robust but it’s it’s english wool so it Is it’s quite a Because of the weather we have here it Is quite a robust wall but it’s actually Quite they they finished it quite well They did i’ve seen it at various stages It’s actually quite interesting to be Involved in it he showed me a stage

Before it’s been processed a couple more Times since the original time i saw it And it was quite a loose weave And this brown Brownie grate is the natural color of The sheep so there’s not a lot of dye in There it’s quite a Eco-friendly way of working yeah and Then what we’ve done for this again is Something unique obviously you’ve got Your suede patches shooting with a Recoil pad which is removable if you Decide you don’t need it if you’ve got a Gun with less kick or when it goes into The cleaners this doesn’t go brittle Over time you’re pulling out the heavy Guns yeah but i think this is a good Example of You know the range of clothes that we Can make and also the fabric here the Pattern is Rather unusual Because of its size it’s a very large Pattern which also presents its own Challenges for that’s right fitting and Making sure that it’s Where you’re going to put the center It’s certainly not economical to cut This check because obviously we want Everything to match this way yeah and This way so as much as we can obviously You have to work around configurations Of customers but this all matches Through here but obviously the repeat is

Actually that big wow so to get it all To fit in economically it’s not Necessarily the best of ultimately it Gives me lots of cloth I mean look at that i mean this is You know really bespoke at its finest And this is something that you know Savile row really thrives in is that That’s that’s one of the sort of i Wouldn’t say it’s one of the hidden Talents but because you can see it here But people Don’t if it’s done Improperly yeah then you notice it yeah But when it’s done Like this yeah it just looks you do you Don’t you notice it obviously but if it Was wrong it will stand out more so the Challenge to Um the team making it is getting Everything in in in set there Um but also Did you notice the turnback cuff on that I didn’t even see that Yeah That’s a testament to to the person Making it Matching everything up on this pattern You actually it’s camouflage well There’s never a dull day here at dejan Skinner uh william thank you so much for Having me this is total pleasure and Honor thank you so much for allowing me To stand behind your boards and um

I mean such a great testament to Bespoke craftsmanship at its finest so What a privilege to come in here and and To see i mean what a wide breadth of Work uh that you guys are able to manage Here so thank you so much william you’re Welcome appreciate it we’ll see you soon Yep