SURPRISE Bespoke Suit! | First Fitting | Davidoff of London & Henry Poole!

Have a surprise in store for Eddie First it's one of my dreams to to one Day own a trooper spoke suit really yeah Yeah well it's funny you should mention This I mean on one of our prior videos You kind of expressed you know this Similar sentiment of one day maybe Having me help guide you through that Process in the same way that you have so Generously kind of guided me through the Process of really discovering you know The beauty of cigars and so I took the Liberty and I reached out to Simon on That note I think the best thing is Really Eddie is you know today we start Your journey into what we call purpose But I don't know what to say I'm not sure I'm ready for this [Music] [Applause] Foreign [Applause] [Music] And I'm thrilled to be back here in London on Salvo row exploring the world Of quality craftsmanship and tradition But I'm not here for the first fitting Of one of my own bespoke suits no Instead I'm here for my good friend Eddie sahakian's fitting of his first Pure bespoke suit from Henry pool in our Last video together where we surprised Eddie with this project we saw him Select his fabric at Henry pool and have

The measurements taken now his pattern Has been drafted the fabric chalked and Cut in a first fitting prepared so join Me as we step inside Henry pool for the First fitting of his bespoke suit It's a very proper London day it is it's Gone just cold enough I mean for you you know you don't mind Right yeah no that's a nice uh the warm Weather sure beats the heat in Texas I Guess would you call this warm I guess It's warm this is going towards Spring Yeah after you here we are Henry Poole How exciting it's wonderful [Music] Please allow me to reciprocate Thank you [Music] [Applause] [Music] Assignment I'm so pleased it's been a while but We're ready now to see you and I hope You're ready I am I'm raring to go yeah I mean this is uh Eddie's first first Fitting and I have to say what a house To do it in so this is I'm I think I I May be more excited than he is it's not Possible well this time she's love to See Kirby just enjoying the moment Savoring this through you you know oh Yes exactly and of course Kobe's been Through obviously you're about to go Through as well so there's a lot of

Rekindling that we can do with Kirby as Well so that's lovely and you'll see it All so that's great it's great well and I guess this is the first feeling so the Suit's been basted together and yeah For the first time my virgin first Fitting right can we say that No but obviously you know you come to a Place here founders of several row Henry Pool and again everything is made in the Premises so you'll see that and the team Behind us and a little bit what goes Into it today so uh enjoy yeah when I Guess yeah one of the other things I Must say that's nice being here in London is I mean you guys travel all Over the world and so it's great Extending pool's reach you know to America to Asia for people that aren't Able to make it to London and you know That is an incredible experience and at The end of the day they still get the Same pool suit but to be able to do this Here in London on salvoir row at pool I Think is exactly how I would want it to Be for your first suit so I'm Particularly you know just pleased the Way this is all coming together you've Ruined the rest of my life I can never Achieve this again right wait until you Have the suits so well we just travel All the time I just come back from America I'm heading to Japan on Thursday Back next week we've had another trip

Meantime to Vienna and Frankfurt so it's Non-stop traveling but it's a lovely way To do meet customers them to experience Fittings so it's lovely yeah so but it's Always special to come to London and see The magic let's be happy well thank you Speaking of magic uh shall we can we go See the suit let's go make some matches Yeah let's do it okay come on through Here thank you [Music] Oh Coming on to the back part of Henry pool Just In The Cut room here we have the Obviously you know and if you have your Suit at first stage here it is yeah so This is believe it this is what we call The base stage the first stage it's all About your posture how you stand it's a Very much an open ticket we can really Go into detailing in terms of length Button Heights shoulder angles all that Comes out at this stage it's a very easy Part to change the fabric change the Style seeing the suit at this stage There's always something special about This stage in the process seeing it come Together for the first time and that's a Great choice in fabric excuse my my Rookie question the the sort of white Stitching on it what is what's purpose Is that uh well it's called base Stitching and basically it's a tacking Stitch it really holds the the core

Piece of the Garment together and at any One stage it can be pulled out and Readjusted yeah so inside you have all Of what the actual padding stitching Going on here you have the canvassing Yes you have the yeah In the Milton and then of course Underneath here you have the horse hair Which is in between the two items yeah The horse that gives it that structure Yeah and it's real horses horses and These these components I mean correct me If I'm wrong salmon have really not Changed much over the last hundred years Maybe 200 yeah I mean what I find so Romantic about bespoke tailoring is just The notion that the suit is being made The same way today as it has been for The better part of at 200 years yes I Mean it's really incredible made for you By hand the same way this is to me is You know the the magic of Saddle row I'd Say for me I'm getting the same Excitement as the first time I visited a Cigar Factory and saw them taking the Individual leaves and eventually Assembling them into a cigar I have that Same fascination with the with the Garment here it's quite some of you I Mean the canvassing is one part and That's down to yourself we obviously Your chest size your body size is all Part of that chemistry we can extremely Make a stronger canvas for a stronger

Chest or we give a little chest giving You that lovely hourglass look so that's The part the body into the canvassing Then it's put onto the fabric itself and Yours was that lovely Premiere Crew 11 Ounce herringbone finish yeah amid such Great visual texture it was exactly what We were talking about at all these here We can still change in terms of with the Lapel height of Notch all this is about To be changed today this is where we're Going to see the guidelines your button Position on the waistline is just here But again we can lower it higher than it The length of coat is very important too To give that proportion you know your Leg size to body mass so all these kind Of small details with the lapels as well Width of shoulder yeah this is very much But already you can see that lovely Drape and shape coming into it by the Canvassing yeah and if you turn it Around you can see the sub the hollow in The back it's going to come in through Here as well so you get that Three-dimensional shape if you just Curve it to this way here you can see That being in the curve there yeah I mean what's amazing is again I mean This is sculpture you know at the Highest level and so of course it you Know Simon and it was Tom you know took Your measurements right they drafted the Pattern by hand but really the proof is

Kind of here at this first fitting of Seeing it come together in the three Dimension you know three-dimensionally But you know again it has to be fit you Have to see the fabric drape and so this First fitting and the second fitting That multiple fittings is as much a part Of the bespoke process as those initial Measurements and uh you know correct me If I'm wrong but I mean you often say That the fittings are really what give The Garment its Integrity in terms of Validating the fit and seeing the way That that fabric you know really just Kind of interacts with you you know on We also obviously comes down to the Trousers too just beside you here you'll Have your trousers too and this is also A very key moment there's also the Height the waist positioning of the of The actual balance again of your of your Seat how that holds you can see the Lovely uh Selvage here tell us a story Of the actual quality of it like a good Bottle of wine yeah so says this from The fabric yeah this is the silver Jed You see this this this decrees what the Quality is what the brand is what the What the type of fabric it is it's just Like a bottle of wine it's a good label So that's I love it yes It's a great name isn't it it's a great Name but that's again a lot goes into Trousers you know sometimes you don't

Really you realize what the jackets do Yeah and you realize the work you can See it's a visual thing with behind the Holes with felling but you don't often See what goes into the trousers so when You see the beautifully made trousers With the lovely felling there again the Detention to detail with the finishing On the fly line the hand made on the Felling and the trousers all these sort Of things make a big difference on the Trousers as well and what you'd also Expect to have is the inlays so of Course with inlays for the for several Row it's very much to have a good Internet There's always a little change in us at Some point in life and if if there is That's the beauty is you just bring this Back to change so a good one and a half On the side seems a good two inches at The back of the center back seam and That's to say that's in the trousers With the coats much the same thing side To see them again one and a half at the Back two inches so again it's it's Really is about four inches of play in Its lifetime of having the suit that's a Wonderful inbuilt uh protection or yeah Not quite redundant insurance is a good Word yeah and that's again one of the Amazing things about bespoke is you know The handwork doesn't exist for the sake Of the handwork itself it really is to

Add the durability and the longevity to The Garment and so the way that the Garment is being structured ensures that It's going to look great and last a Lifetime yeah and the inlays also help Ensure that kind of as your weight kind Of Ebbs and flows as it does in all of Our lives that the Garment can be let Out taken in Um you know to allow it uh you know that Longevity and the beauty is And if we get this past stage whatever We do to this today goes back to your Pattern in fact here is your pattern Yeah so this is the joys that your Pattern is here this is now a piece of History that sits in our vaults and in Here Um is your body shape and then what Happens is it will be taken through and Adjusted and then next time Smaller details to be done to the Pattern again and then finally you'll Have a pattern which really is hopefully A one fitting and when we say pattern I Mean this opens up and it's it's a piece Of cardboard essentially is it like an Outline of it's a card it is a card Indeed and that's your trouser pattern There that's your top that's your Underside yes brace charts are coming Through and then on the side here it's a Front part here of the top side with a Little Dart here and and would it be

That someone you know places this on a Fabric and if they cut along the edge They would have my pattern is that how It works or or do these things mean Something different as well no this is All part of your waist seat measures uh Chest measures all that all that is on Here that's The waistcoat yeah I mean this is the Permanent record and it's kind of a Living history of the Garment itself Because as a customer continues in their Bespoke Journey you know measurements And alterations you know will all be Indicated on your pattern So correct me if I'm wrong but if you Pull out a customer's pattern that has Been with you for say a decade and have Several commissions you kind of see that That kind of Journey you know really Reflected on the pattern itself so Sometimes when you're the crease Increase your size we actually add on a Little piece of actual card again so you Get these growth marks it'd be like a Tree rings of a tree that going around The pattern yes I should do my best to Minimize this it goes the other way Where we can take it off as well but Yeah it's like wrinkles of wisdom you Know it's like you know the more time The pattern has the more you kind of see It reflected in the pattern itself I I Find it amazing that you essentially

Have a 3D record of of my shape you know In a way it's like getting a sculpture Sculptor made and and here it is Immoralized yeah and it basically joins The rest of the patterns we have about 5 000 patterns uh sit here at Henry pool With our customers Through the Ages and You know whether we see them every year Or every five years they come back and Obviously not measure them again yeah do You ever get the Next Generation you Know one day if you've my son I'm no Longer here and my son sort of wants to Remember me would he be able to come to Look at my pattern of course I mean That's that's what we do and to be fair Often sometimes the family asks for the Pattern back when we hear the sad news It's a nice thing sometimes that Actually people yeah ask for the pattern For the family member which is I think Is a nice thing well and I mean I mean Don't you also have you know family Members coming in where you know maybe You know they inherited a suit from oh Yeah a father or a grandfather and they Have it altered you know to fit yeah That often happens too so you know Pending the relationship the height Width of customer is possible yeah um to Have to have it hand me down yeah sort Of Suits joke with Nathaniel it's like He he you know he needs to have my same Shoe size

A question Simon to your very trained Eye if you see someone walk into a room Wearing a suit can you tell immediately If it's a fully bespoke versus a semi Bespoke versus a of the shelf suit about And what what do you notice that tells You that yeah so I think typically I you Spot yeah in a ho in an airport in a Club as you start to notice everyone's Suits and of course your eye is Permanently looking at suits yeah and You start looking at the shoulder lines Look at the Gorge you're looking at the Edge stitching and these hand Buttonholes obviously give it away and This is very much what really suits are About and proportionally you can start To see that the tailoring has been Happening but on the construction of the Suit to get it right so your eye detail Goes straight to usually the buttonholes The finishing the shoulder line and then You start to look at proportionally how The suit lies with that customer and Then you figure out yes it's a bit Bespoke suit or a handmade suit and then The question is you can start telling Whether it's going to be an Italian a Parisian or a London made yeah that's The next thing you can start I know yeah I mean it's you know it's like in so Many ways like wine making where you Know there's a real kind of flavor you Know to the suits depending on where it

Was made and who made it I mean even and Savile Row where you have you know Several different you know Heritage Houses you know the distinction and cut Between the houses themselves each have Their Nuance kind of difference or Flavor that as you you know kind of you Know you progress in this world you Begin to pick up on yes yeah and you Can't help it yeah it's your eye contact Is so important but your eyes start to Look at the shoulder lines lapels and It's just a natural thing that us Tailors do yeah yeah I've gone through this before but every Single time I'm here at this stage I Just marvel at the Garment because all Of this work that goes into the Construction of the Garment once it's Finished you know and you have your Lining you never see it and so to be Able to see the Garment at this you know Incomplete stage allows you a glimpse Into the magic that you really find in a Bespoke garment and so going back to the Canvas right you know again what is Incredible to me is you look at the Incredible shape of garment all of this Is literally created by this stitching It is the shape of the thread you know The way that the Garment and the cloth Is you know handled by the tailor and it Is sewn in that gives the Garment its Shape and it again you would never think

About it but each one of these stitches And once it's completed you'll see it All the way along the lapel itself is An element of the Integrity of the Garment itself this this is very much a Part of essence that really goes into What several Rowe and Henry Ford deal With hand canvassing this is often like Comparing it to sort of a chassis on Your car that you don't often see it yes But you know it's there and there's a Lot of work goes into a chassis and this Is the same as what we put into our Chess pieces by this camera scene so Again two-directionals one going this Way gives you the shape this way and Then the others you see the other Direction here which gives you the shape That way but that is giving you this Shape of this way and that way through The chest area itself and here Individually it's done for you so if You're a bigger gentleman you get a Bigger curvature and a smaller but just A smaller curvature yeah but Nevertheless it's very much a personal Thing here May I ask a question just a curiosity Question the the stitching sort of the Style of the stitching so on what would A expert Taylor know oh yeah that's Tom Who's done that or is there a certain Style that individual trailers apply Absolutely so often in apprenticeship

World you know The Apprentice would be Doing this padding stitching and you Know under your Mentor he would have Talked to or she would have taught that Situation to that person yeah and that's Like I had a little stamp that goes Inside the canvassing and it's much the Same as this teamwork who's working on Your coat Eddie is obviously Rafe and Charlie who do the coat making side and That's just what you have here so Rafe Will be doing your beautiful cat Canvassing here and then Charlie were Preparing and sewing all the pockets and All the detailing on the ham on putting It together and that's how it works and You've got um you know two other teams With Cena and Amos working on your Trousers and these people are your team So every time you order something it's The same team that putting it together And that's what we do and that's how we Work it so your cutter is Tom who is Face to face visually knowing you Hearing how you like suits and then Obviously the team that worked with Tom Who learn about your figure from Tom Will create that pattern and make it Yeah from years to come you know this is Pure bespoke and again it's those Thousand you know pad stitches is what Gives the Garment it's an incredible Durability so that you know you can Throw it in the back of your car you can

Hang it on a cheap hanger not a hanger Language you'd get for you know Kirby Allison Um but that Integrity is again what Ensures the reliability that every Single time you pull your bespoke Henry Pool suit out of the closet you can Trust that it's going to look beautiful And it's that hand work that allows that Durability to persist in the Garment as You live in a garment like it doesn't Have to be you know you don't need kid Gloves you know for your bespoke suit I mean you don't want to you know you Don't abuse it you know but at that same Time it doesn't need to be treated as Though it's some precious thing that I Mean it's meant to be worn it's meant to Be lived in and it's meant to look great Throughout life you will find hopefully There's a feeling of just Nothingness to your constraints it's Something you put on and it just works With you and every movement you make Every turn every Lift Every position you Shouldn't feel any sort of tightness or Or looseness or binding it's just Natural yeah you know a good friend and Mentor you know told me that you know if Your tailored clothing isn't the most Comfortable clothing that you wear it's Not because it's a tailored garment it's Because it wasn't made properly this Will be this will be the most

Comfortable Thing that you could possibly put on Once it's fully made when I get into bed Wearing my yeah I know well Henry pool's Suit my wife may object but it's not Quite pajamas yes Eddie we want you but They can make those for you as well It'll be very important to test how my Cigar um We always say let's look clean at the Back but at least you can raise a glass Or have a cigar that's what we need yes Well let's come through let's go and fit It yeah okay exciting this is this is Pretty exciting thank you very much So how do you remember Tom of course how Are you Tom lovely to see you thank you Welcome back thank you so much very Excited Go through thank you very much Simon Okay Foreign Here we are This is I was telling Eddie earlier this Is Eddie's first first fitting This is a pretty exciting my motion yeah Right I'm excited to be here and I have To say seeing this come together even Having gone through the bespoke process A few times I still Marvel at the Process itself so I can't wait but we're in good hands oh Yes Tom you know gentle hands looking Forward to it sir thank you we'll get

You into the trousers first have a look At those that marry up the waistcoat Length with that and then finally look At the coat on top of everything else Wonderful thank you I'll let you do that Part yourself brilliant thank you Kirby So uh well here we go the trousers have To say You're looking smart so it's slightly Um we're giving us a slight uh bonus by The Mike microphone pack there Um and even with that microphone pack in There I think that's about where the Size I'd like to see it to be would be We like to have a little bit of room Inside there so that we can sit down and Expand yes and not feel constricted yeah Um so I think that's about where I'd Like to see it considering we've got the The microphone pack in there I think we Can afford to take the whole trouser in Just a little bit all the way through The waist yeah you would take it in yeah Yeah just because the microphone pack is Is showing me that it could fill out a Little bit Yeah and then when I do that I'll get a little bit more of a hollow In this morning back yeah so you see It's just a little bit that we can just Reduce there for you Yeah one of the things that again Eddie That I think is um An important note since you're cutting These for braces is really you know

Allowing room the hesitancy is to not Allow enough room because it feels too Loose in the waist but you know these Are cut for braces especially with this High back yes I mean this is the Pinnacle of comfort is having it so that The trousers are hanging from your Shoulders versus ever gripping on the Waist And it's another virtue of just the Longevity of a garment having that room Allows your weight to kind of fluctuate Throughout the year you know from Christmas to Summer you know as we kind Of oscillate very very politely without Your trousers ever really grabbing at The waist yes um would you agree with That absolutely yeah but with with these We can certainly just reduce it a little Bit through the waste of the seat and Still keep a nice line from the seat Down uh the fronts look very clean uh There's nothing going to be pulling over The top of the legs where gentlemen are Often strong just here yeah Um and that looks like it's going to be A clean run down yeah and so that's not A bad start I think we've got the braces In a good position Um And with that in mind I then look at the Length yeah if I determine that this is Where they're going to sit I think the Length for me uh is is good there's a

Nice break and they're covering the back Of the shoe well you start to stride Around and then you might obviously see A little flash of sock but it's not Going to be swinging around your ankles So for us that's how I like it very much Personal preference some Gentlemen Prefer a shorter trouser with uh less Break but when you struck stride around I think that's an agreeable length and a Good break over the shoe especially is Wearing loafers today yes I'm often in Loafers even even with my suits and Rarely do I have any higher shoes on um Yeah I certainly don't wear Chelsea Boots or anything of these sorts so I Think the length is agreeable yeah we Just we just tweak the waste just a Little bit get a little bit more Definition in the small of the back There and clear clear it over the sea to Sliver but other than that settling very Cleanly yeah and we decide on back Pockets or no pockets uh I I think I Can't remember I I made a last minute Adjustment to the spec list that Simon Sent through I think it was no pocket Yeah I think it looks nice with no Pockets yeah I mean it's a real bespoke Look is to not have any pockets and Especially with a pair of trousers like This with no back pockets you just gets Such a beautiful drape over the sea Keeps the seat clear yes and My

Philosophy with hip pockets is if you Don't use them don't have them it's just Another layer of fabric and then you've Got a little button there that can catch On of your car seats and that sort of Thing if necessary yeah so that's my Philosophy there aren't any pockets in There at the moment but they will be Down the side side seam there people in The front of the trailer Um what's your rule of thumb on how much Room on a properly wasted trousers what I tend to do is ask the gentleman to sit Down we've normally got a chair in this Fitting room when you sit down because They're higher up over the body our Stomachs tend to expand yeah and you Want to be comfortable certainly if You're at dinner So I tend to ask a gentleman to sit down And then if they're closer and I can Just kind of still have a little bit of Room yes then that's about agreeable and Different gentlemen as well like a Little bit more play some like them Gripping them more Um I think these are nearly there yeah And again I mean if it's properly cut For braces without the braces I mean They should you shouldn't be able to Wear them right they really do require Braces they might slip to the hip or or The seats depending on the customer's Figure yeah okay yeah so the only other

Test is can I eat a Texas Steak yes That's right and it still feels Comfortable I had to bring it to Texas If you eat one of those not much feels Comfortable that's right yeah Um great okay I'm gonna put the Waistcoat on next yeah okay if you put Both your arms back please Eddie thank You very much and Eddie you can see this Beautiful the Henry pool You know signature the racing green Green Silk is this silk or rayon this is Is the synthetic lining but it's got a Beautiful Sheen yeah so it's gorgeous And this would be the house I mean this Is what you would default to unless Otherwise specified by the customer This is Eddie's particular choice okay Uh conveniently for us It's in the mold of uh Henry Paul Green And it's also the Davidoff what exactly There we go exactly that this was all Very carefully considered at the first Uh well this is the beauty of bespoke is Being able to really uh you know have That degree of control to make it Special Here I was thinking that it was the pool Green but uh well it's a beautiful Combination I have to say with this gray Herringbone and that green My two favorite colors together That's an elegant combination

I've got a pair of Slippers or loafers call it with with The same green sole Uh done by a friend who wanted to match The Davidoff green do you yeah an Outsole yeah oh really yeah again if You're having ever your shoes made you Could have or made to order You could have the lining done in the Same green it could be you know the Sahakian trademark you know So a question I generally start at the Top of a garment and look at the collar First uh it's it's gripping the shirt Nicely it's settling around the collar Where it it should do it's not pulling Uh from where you're strongest here so The shoulder angle is nice this will Narrow up to where those stitches are There yes so that that will end up being More It's more like sale okay so if you can Visualize that that's where it will Finish there And then of your chest it's not breaking In the armhole so that's nice and clean Here it's wrapping where it wants to at The top uh the back is very clean the Balance is good We might just have a little look again Without the microphone pattern because I Feel like it's just pulling that side Away a little bit we're just oh thank You thank you yeah you see then that

That was Come round with the waistcoat um how Fitted would you wear it typically or Would is that purely preference Sometimes preferences I would I would Encourage you to Take a deep breath for me fill your Lungs and when you've done that I can Feel it just gripping you here now if You don't feel constricted when you're Breathing and it's just touching you and Your lungs are full that's my guide for Having it right at the top around the Lungs around the chest some gentlemen Can feel a little bit of space here and Think oh it's a little bit Flappy but Then when they climb up some stairs and Fill their lungs up if you can feel it Restricting you it's very very Uncomfortable there's nothing worse than A tight waistcoat over the chest so you Need a little bit of room to play yes And then through through the body it's The same again we need a little bit of a Silhouette and I think we can get a Little bit more shape in there for you Um obviously you've got the braces here Pushing it out but bear in mind there's No pocketing in there Um and then when I've come through there Which is not bad it's on it's on the Hips it's moving over the hips nicely But we are going to take the trousers in And I think we could probably nip that

Waistcoat in just a little bit at the Bottom it's hanging straight now that That microphone pack is out it's hanging Straight like it should do and then it Should kick out over the hips a little Bit which it is doing but I think we can Accentuate that a bit more And it's sitting nice at the front and Then the length I look at if we If we are sure that we've got the Waistband of the trousers in the right Position that last functional button Here I like to see hitting around about The seam of the waistband of the Trousers eliminates the risk of flashing Shirts when you're yes riding it out and Then at the side as well we don't want To see shirts at the side so we have a Little vent at the side of the waistcoat There and that that's on the way span Seam of the trouser as well It's on the edge I'd say of being a Slither along the waistcoat we could Probably just shorten it up just a Little bit and I'll just give you an Indication by wicking it through the Shoulders but if I just shorten it as Slither I think it will elongate your Legs and keep your body looking strong So it's only has to live there but I'll Do that for you Um in general the size the silhouette And the balance is good so that's a good Start on the waist and then it'll have

Eventually it'll have the pocketing Although whatever it is for the chains And so on you'll have Two pockets each side as indicated there And we'll have an extra vertical Um buttonhole that you can pass the uh Wonderful pocket watch Um so good start and so one other Question for the back is there that sort Of attachment strap does that come as Part of it or is it fixed uh so to speak You can have a strap and a buckle if you Wish to have it it's more of a cosmetic Thing okay you can if you go down a bit In size and you want to hold the Waistcoat in just a little bit at the Back then it's it's got a bit of Function as well I don't see myself Getting much Slimmer than I am currently So if anything it's a risk is on the Upside so I'm happy to you know yeah I Mean again I think bespoke it should be Cut perfectly yeah you wouldn't Necessarily you wouldn't need that I Like that yeah and if you know if any Adjustments are required I mean the Beauty of being here in London is you Could just run it down and you know yeah Have any adjustments so we can forego Having a strap and a buckle on the back I find the Buckle as well it's another Fiddly yes and another risk of catching On a lining or the back of a chair or Something like this yes got it so yeah

We'll forget that perfect And then and then we'll move on to the Coat but in general Good Start wonderful Yeah it's an interesting point you make About the buttons and car seats because It really can be quite abrasive to the Leather as you're getting in and out of The vehicle repetitively yes candy yeah It's like rivets on Blue Jeans Incredibly destructive Well I mean so you know I have my jeans Made of course and I have them made Specifically without the rivets you know Because scratch furniture ruined car Seats I call it my dress denim you know Well I guess do the honors this is uh This is exciting I mean to see it come Together This first fitting I always there's Something special about the first Fitting Yeah yes it's It's the most important for the the Cutter really you get to see The the basic structure and balance and Salmon was I think saying you know Whenever we were doing my Tweed suit you Know Simon and Alex said you know the First fitting really exists for the Cutter not for the customer Although it's quite an experience for The customer oh yeah I mean this really is my very first First fitting so

I mean the suit hardly needs any Additional work it looks perfect Well we're working with it No we can work on it we want to watch on Because it's going to get an indication As to where the shirt will be yeah okay Just relax yeah we might have one or two Things planned for the shirt also so That is an important part of the process Of having a consistent sleeve length Between shirts Because you can have your suit sleeve Perfectly Measured but then if your shirt sleeve Is bouncing all over the place from Shirt to shirt it can produce the Kind of impression that your suit Sleeves aren't the right length is that Right we don't like getting into a fight With shirt makers yeah But I'd love advice on that because I've Never known what the correct Called it ratio is between visible shirt Shirt sleeve and suit and so on well We're really getting into uh It's an age old debate as to the proper Length there's no there's no answer but So at this stage Eddie what I'm doing is I'm just making sure the suit is Central In the back of your neck and then just Letting it fall around and wrap Naturally at the front and I I tend to Pin it as if it was buttoned and then See if it's wrapping too much or too

Little on the front Um I like about an inch and a half of a Wrap over the front there but the Buttons back three quarters of an inch It's wrapping over a Slither more than I Would like so I might shave a little bit Of size away but I'll determine whether To do that on the front or through the Sides and Henry pulled a two button Normally is that the house style or is It two button or one not two but I Figured we don't impose a house style Okay but the majority of Of uh coats that we cut we'll have two Buttons got it and then we uh work According to gentlemen's preference of Course I love a nice two button you know You know natural Power Jacket Again like the vest I'll start at the Top and I can see it's nicely settled Around your collar there uh nicely Flowing around the shirts Um the chest is not breaking see the Occasionally gentleman with strong chest And slim waist they'll find that they Buy something that fits here and then It's popping off the chest there so That's where I want to get you enough Room which we've got which is good Shoulder angle is fine the width I think Is just right because I can feel your Arms here and it's falling elegantly From the side there

Um it's wrapping a little bit generously On the front but I don't want to take it Off the front there I think we can Probably like with the waistcoat we can Just pull it back a little bit in the Sides and give you a bit more of a bit More shape a bit more pop sir yes Wonderful Um but it's good across the shoulders And it's going to drape beautifully There giving you the room to move but Where you don't need that excess shape I Can take it away and then I'm just Looking through the side of the coat to Look for any indications of a long or Short front or back Um the balance looks fairly good I think when we take that in and the Sides I think it will just sharpen up The whole silhouette And then working our way down when I've Done that we'll have Just another look At the length and the last thing that I Look at is the length of the sleeves And generally Generally if it's the first thing the Customer looks at it shows that the rest Of the suit doesn't have any major Disasters in it which is good Um conversely if I've had a personal Disaster with the cutting I'll go Straight for the sleeve length Focus the customer's mind there while I

Wonder what I'm going to do with the Shoulders in this case you've given me a Good head start so thank you for that But I can just pull a little bit of the Excess Cloth through The side of the jacket and I think that Will just Make you feel like it's just hugging you A little bit more but still leave you That room to move Wonderful And I think I can do it through the Whole coat and just lock it on you can Just see it just pull it just a little Bit under there But leave all that room in the shoulder And across the back Which is Imperative for the movement if you want To go inhale a cab or raise a glass to Your mouth Cigar that's of course That's right then See I think we'll leave the back and Just pull that side through on the front Do you have a side panel Or is it I do yeah yeah I do I have a Side a side panel on this what's the Side panel there's a multiple pieces of Fabric joined together here the one Through the front and there's one Through the side of the coat and then One at the back or two at the back

Because I was joined in the center but Another one of those kind of nuanced Differences between makers I mean Someone wouldn't have a side panel right Don't they take it and with the dart Generally I mean like the difference in Cut also goes down to the way that the Tailor is constructing the pattern Occasionally I will use all forms of Um cuts dependent on the customer's Figure yeah whatever works on that Particular gentleman so some gentlemen's Figures require Uh the size to be taken away in a Different place okay maybe under a Stomach as opposed to the side some Gentlemen are wider in the hips than They are in the front yes so you would You could or presumably cut a suit Without a side panel depending on the Shape of the customer and kind of Whatever oh yes I quite often do okay Yeah but for Eddie this one gives uh for Me I thought it would give the most Elegant silhouette yeah and I think that Would be nice I think it's really clean Over the front the there's nothing Really to attend to at the neck point Which is good that's a good first first Look there it's wrapping where it wants To in the front and we we like it to Just just float a little bit there but I Have been able to pull it back half an Inch either side just to give it a bit

More Um what do you think of the length of The jacket I tend to because I'm quite tall myself I sometimes wander out of the fitting Room and look from a distance because The perspective in a fitting room for me Is a bit distorted yeah I'm looking over A shoulder and down and it distorts my View so I sometimes take a few Paces Outside of the fitting room and have a Look From a Distance yeah I like to see It around the knuckle of the thumb ish Um I think the sleeve length of the Shirt could be accused of being a little Bit long Oh like I said I don't want to get into A fight with your shirt maker but I I Fit the jacket sleeves to where I think They should be and then have another Look at the next stage because we can Always tweak that going forward we've Get plans to sort Eddie out on shirts as Well so Not to ruin any additional plans I have For you Eddie You can dress me as much as you like I Will be honored Um and it's a beautiful shape and lapel I mean look at this I mean again you Know something as simple as a lapel There's so much Nuance to kind of how a Cutter you know builds shape into that And Tom I think you've done a beautiful

Job well thank you Kevin that's very Kind Um yes I'm I'm in awe um a couple of Things I do need to pay attention to Um we've hidden your shirt there and Taking your shirt out of the equation I Think the length of this jacket sleeve Is about right so I'm going to bring This one down to marry up with this one And then we'll have another look at the Next time The pitch of the sleeves is something We'll attend to more closely at the next Fitting Um what is the pitch of the sleeves the The pitch of the sleeve is is uh where It falls In relation to where your arm hangs so If you uh if you have elderly gentlemen That are bent over there's no their arms Hang forward Um and once maybe standing more erect The arms fall further back and Occasionally we have to take the sleeve Out turn it around put it in to marry up With where the arms and what you're Going for is whenever you're just Standing naturally you just want a Beautiful drape of the sleeve without Any wrinkling and the pitch of the Sleeve is really kind of what determines That so you know if you were to Naturally kind of be like this yes you Know you'd see all this wrinkling

Because the pitch of the sleeve's not Correct and so again you know a bespoke Garment one of the Hallmarks is that as You just kind of stand naturally is that It's just going to drape beautifully There's going to be no wrinkling no Pulling and it's that You know I don't know how you would Describe it I mean it's that beauty that Really kind of is one of the Hallmarks Of a great suit Occasion you have a little look under The lapel there you can see occasionally Some Telltale Sort of drag some pulls and ripples but That's sitting cleanly over your chest Um from the neck Point without it Buckling I think that's uh that's a Pretty good for that one there is Sitting nice and cleanly I'm happy with That so there's nothing Too tight or too loose anywhere so the General structure of this yeah is uh is A good start like I said we just bring It a little bit closer to the body all The way through as we are with the Waistcoat Um Lengthen this sleeve and it that's a Pretty good start yeah what about I find That um you know this is draping Beautifully right and as you kind of Pointed out like one of the problems is You can fit it here but then this pops

Out I often find that if you put a pocket Square and depending on how bulky that Is it can also kind of throw that open At this stage are you accounting for That to allow a little bit of extra Drape or room here in the chest so that I mean Eddie do you wear pocket squares Not often but I'm beginning to yeah you Know I don't have the confidence to pair Um pocket squares the way you or Simon Do but I'm learning or Nick oh Nick well We always cut with a bit of drape in the Chest in the front not excessive Um because we're finding gentlemen like A cleaner if you cut to the front but we Always leave a little bit of room in There and that will accommodate maybe a Wallet or a telephone yeah uh if I have Some gentleman who really load up their Pockets with Diaries multiple phones Yeah heavy wallets and in that case it Can pull the fronts of the jacket Further away and in that case you might Need a little bit more room on the front Yeah and therefore a bit more over the Chest and it allows you to keep the Silhouette but accommodate this without Bulging okay so yeah that's uh that's Something I generally ask when I'm Selling a garment you get an indication Of what a gentleman carries regularly And then work around that a little bit Uh for ready the regular amount of drape

That we've got in this chest will Accommodate sufficiently anything he Needs yeah and then you've got the cigar Pockets right we kind of worked through All that yeah so those won't mine yet my Telephone is always on the right side a Little pen cigars I guess in the second time you know once You have the uh lining in and the Pockets will that be something that you Validate at that stage is say fill your Pockets as you would yes yeah Occasionally ask gentlemen just to check That they can accommodate their Paraphernalia no problem Um but at this stage it's more about the General balance sizing structure Um and talk through balance just real Quick still there's so much for me to Learn and that balance is one of those You know really important but slightly Technical well think about it as two Lengths the length of the front of the Coat relative to the length of the back Okay Um if a coat is short of balance it Generally refers to the fact the back is Short so if I pinned out for sake of Example a chunk of length in the back of That coat you can see it riding up at The back there and Rippling and that's An indication that it's too short okay With back balance and it's the relative Length of the back to the front so it's

Kind of the pitch of so I guess again Like maybe we lack the perspective right Here right so Eddie would you know you Take him outside and let him stand at a Distance but if we're looking at it from A side from the side you've got kind of The visual balance where the fronts Relative to the backs are Level yeah Occasionally we'd like to see the fronts Just slithered down a little bit in the Back yeah for the optical illusion okay But Um generally yes especially on an Overcoat for example you'd occasionally Measure to the floor to the front Hem of An Overcoat in the back okay Um yeah and it it's also indicated by Whether the front of the coat is pulling Away there's a few things that affect is It that there are Domino effects to Certain changes in in a fitting balance Is one of the first things you look at If you get the balance right then you Can get the size right and you're Talking about room in the chest and Reason it pops off here sometimes Gentlemen who buy ready to wear clothing Will buy something that fits them in the Stomach and they're nice and trim here But they've been in the gym and they're Working out and bulking up in the chest So they're more concerned about it Fitting them where they feel like They've done the work to remain trim but

They don't have the room here and that Can look a little unelegant so we do Occasionally have to train gentlemen in That situation to feel like comfortable Having it drape Yeah over the front of their body it's Like when trousers which I would imagine You know the moment you you know you Kind of bring someone over to the dark Side of uh for you know high-waisted Trousers cut with room you know there's A certain amount of getting used to Not having a grip at the waist that Might feel a little uncomfortable at First that's right and when you've got Used to having trousers hang from the Shoulders you never have to pull them up Again you never have to worry about Where they are yeah so the awkwardness With wearing braces in that scenario is Sitting down if they feel like they're Restricting you but if I'm eating I Occasionally just pop them off my Shoulders yeah I wonder if that's one of the things That disappeared as you know as Everything went ready to wear is you Could no longer you know really build That degree of customization into the Trousers to accommodate for high-waisted Trousers colored braces I mean it's been One of the most significant I don't know what you would call it you Know kind of progressions or evolutions

Of just my personal preferences is Finally experiencing proper high-waisted Trousers and it's the cut correctly yeah It's easy to fit something that doesn't Fit well with with a good belt isn't it Yeah well or high-waisted trousers they Don't have enough room and a number of Times I've had something made to measure Maybe where it's you know I want them Cut for braces and it's still grabbing At the waist because you know they Didn't want to put enough room in but Once you finally hit it done properly I Mean it really is uh such a significant Additional amount of comfort I think it Looks great it's pretty exciting I love It it's a good start Eddie leave it with Me I'll get it ripped down recuts Everything I need to get it back in the Workshops yeah thank you Tom I'm going To call you Donatello from now on Wow great work beautiful thank you very Much I'll get it back in the workshops Yeah brilliant I mean I'm floating on clouds I have to Say Amen Being able to experience this as an Observer has been a pleasure for me as Well Simon I think Tom has taken great Care of us the suit is beautiful oh yes I mean it's just coming together As I would have expected which is Perfectly well that's the first Fittinity so really it's the there's

Really the start of the journey and it Really is the point where hopefully the Big details have been taken though today All the balance the posture the length That gets now back onto the pattern and Then the next stage will be Merle more The shape and the drape the smaller Details and then get back to the pattern Again this is all the part of the real Bespoke work that we do yeah and it's Very much a one-to-one yeah enjoyment I Don't know why in my mind I thought it Was going to be a tortured process of Hours of prodding and poking and Actually Tom made it seamless truthfully Yeah his advice and of course Kirby's Advice as well and your own Simon has Made it so easy for me yeah I feel like Uh like my wife you know well massage Party yeah this is as good as it gets For the well-dressed gentleman well I go Back downstairs and that's where the Massaging takes place of your suit again Now so much to say but Kirby's knowledge Is is known as well It's only by virtue of having spent so Much time here yeah that's true and of Course one of the Hallmarks of pure Bespoke Eddie is that all of the work is Literally done right here on premises so Again it's one of those distinctions of Pure bespoke that highest level of Bespoke being practiced here you know Not just on Savile road but amongst

Specific houses here on Sample row yeah Really takes it to a whole new level That for me is a real joy and this is Something we're proud of Paul we've done It for Generations the family has always Looked to the Next Generation to keep That vein of our cut our look in the Next customers we get through the door But it'll be a new customer whether it Be a relation whether it be a Recommendation that vein exists here so We have some great team and your team Working with your suit and as I say You'll see that coming through it's Clear to me that I'm in the best Possible hands here so thank you so much For that Eddie like your place it's like A little Club it's a comforting Zone to Come into and that's what Pony pool is All about yeah yeah Simon thank you for Taking care of always yeah and I guess We'll be back here in maybe a few months Yeah give us a little time now thank you So much as long as it takes I'm in your Hands great thanks Simon okay yeah thank You very much [Music] Thank you [Music] Thank you [Music] Thank you