Surprising My Friend With A Bespoke Suit! | Davidoff of London & Henry Poole!

Foreign Foreign And I'm back here on Saint James's Street about to go visit with my good Friend Eddie sahakyan and what many of You know is one of my favorite retail Establishments in the world Davidoff of London Davidoff of London has famously Been described as a Bastion of Refinement and whether you're looking to Add to your collection of Fine Cigars or Pursue their unrivaled selection of Accessories in accoutrement there is Simply no better place in this great City for the Discerning Cigar Aficionado I'm always absolutely thrilled to return Back to this wonderful place to enjoy The company of the sahakians over a fine Cigar but today is particularly exciting Because I have a surprise in store for Eddie well may I ask you favor Kirby I Have never ordered A pure bespoke salvaro suit in my life One day I have an ambition to do that But I would only do that if you would do Me the great honor of holding my hand Yes I would love to accompany you we'd Have to interview a few first yeah well I I would be entirely Guided by you on That but it would be such a special Moment yeah what would be my great honor And you know that would be a fun video One day going you know seeing you know What we can do together

So unbeknownst to Eddie I've reached out To my good friend Simon cundy for a Little bit of help Foreign So long story short Simon and I have Agreed to make Eddie his very first pure Bespoke suit and we're going to document The entire process for this channel so Join me as I walk inside I've invited Eddie for a walk down saddle row we're Gonna pop into Henry pool where Simon Has pulled some Winston Churchill Memorabilia and then we're going to Surprise him with this incredible news Foreign You know here we are saddle row you know One of my favorite places not just in London but honestly the world uh and What I love about Savile Row is like German Street like the Piccadilly arcade Like like St James's like Davidoff of London I mean your incredible Corner These places you really only find in London I mean they are institutions Um and are so much a part of the rich Heritage of this country and so it's Always an honor and a pleasure to be Able to you know walk down these streets To be able to film here of course and to Be able to see the incredible product That they're creating of course Even I dream of this yeah and I live Here yeah that's right I mean and the Other thing that I think is incredible

About Salva row is of course you find Bespoke suits all over the place you Find custom suits but a bespoke suit From saddle row still carries a special Cachet you know much in the same way That a Cuban cigar does amongst you know All cigars and so they've got something Here called Pure bespoke you know a term That they've coined to really designate That work that's being done at the Highest level but a hundred percent here On side on Saddle road and so I thought It'd be fun of course a Henry pool Simon Cundy is a good friend of mine we did The suit to shoot series with him I Watched that I love that series uh and You know it was an interesting Intersection he and I were talking in Winston Churchill was a kind of his and So again kind of you know our shared Kind of mutual interests you know and Cigars I thought it'd kind of be fun to Pop into Henry pool and I speak with Simon an opportunity for you to meet him Learn more about what they do but most Importantly I think see some of these um Some of this memorabilia if you will I Would love to see it and I confess I've Never been into Henry pool and what you Told me about Churchill really excites Me yeah it's pretty exciting of course You know Churchill was you know one of The what would you call him a Godfather Of oh yeah kind of Cuban cigars I mean

He was the Inseparable from you know From the cigar so and he was always Impeccably well dressed and of course All of his clothing was made here on Samurai oh I can't wait Foreign Foreign For many years I think so of our Customers you're very kind thank you and Of course I know of your firm only Through infamy and fame yeah well you Know it's always a great privilege to be Able to introduce two great friends Right but also to kind of you know Really important people just in London And what you do in your own regards Right of course Simon candy being Bespoke suiting and Eddie of course with Cigars Um but one of the things we were talking Uh both of us kind of independently and One of the things that I find so unique And fascinating is kind of the shared Histories that so many of these firms Have and one of them that I think is Unique to the two of you is Winston Churchill oh correct of course I was a Client of Henry pool and of course is You know Inseparable from cigars I don't Think you guys ever had the privilege of Selling him scarves directly but he's uh Sadly his presence is that you know Never missed uh inside doubt off of London

Uh and so you know you kind of kindly Offered to kind of pull some things and So I think we'll put some things out There that you might appreciate it Obviously you know a lot of our Customers enjoy time in London they Spend time coming to you they spend time You know enjoying buying from you and Obviously you know they come and see us Too so some of those characters I've Even bought out for you today to see Some of the Ledger books and noticeably A couple of customers that I know smoked And enjoyed smoking so come on over and I'll show you I'm so excited Two Fine Gentlemen who were big cigar enthusiasts As you probably are fully aware but this Is obviously it's a Winston Churchill Back in the Cambridge in 1926 at a young Age really but prolific customer uh Really was good friends with my Grandfather Samuel they really had a Good rapport together and ordered many Many clothes of obviously military style As much as civil star I suppose you Would say uh but you know most of the Photos you see of him wearing clothes That's all pool and still today at Chartwell you'll see the his clothes by Henry Paul also Blenheim we have a Museum and a piece by Henry Paul there So it's very much a homage to have his Book here with us here today He would have been smoking cigars I

Would imagine you know as he came in to The premises and was going through his Fittings absolutely it was it was always A different world back then as much as I Understand it every time he bought Something back he always found a little Stub of a cigar inside the ticket pocket Inevitable yes and what do you record Here are you capturing measurements in Here or is it the order itself the Leisure style of the book where Basically you're adding in the items or He orders uh the year we did it the Price to it and where it was delivered To so you can see Chartwell here Western Kent and these are all the items that he Did from pages and pages of Suits sports Jackets dress dress dinner suits smoking Jackets they all were very much what Once how many pages would you I think we Have about total of six uh Ledger books With six entries some are literally uh You know ten six pages of clothes Um so it's quite remarkable what he got Up to but he really was quite innovated With clothes as well and the structure He put to detail was quite something so You know things like his City suit with A lovely feather weave with a morning Strap trouser I mean that really was a Sort of you know iconic suit we always Know him to wear today the siren sued From Nasser I mean he really you know he Was a man that knew what he liked and

Then worked with The bespoke Artisans of London to have these things created Which is such a testament to the bespoke Process this is one of the things I was Describing to Eddie is how you know at This level of pure bespoke I mean of Course the work is being done at the Highest levels has the provenance of Being done on premises but at the end of The day I mean this is such a great Testament to what I think represents the Zenith of the bespoke experience which Is the depth of the relationship and Where you are able to because of that Relationship and just your comfort begin Creating totally one-off unique pieces That are literally tailored to your Lifestyle so whatever the you know Whatever the pockets are or whatever you Know the small details are about kind of How it is you live your life you can Integrate these into the garments yep That's the beauty of it we call it pure Bespoke so purebred spoke really is Something which is a blank canvas so When it comes down to button positions With lapels Um you know pocketing details the Linings Um you know even the height of lapels on Notches we can actually work that for You let alone the class we can introduce To show you which performance related so You can have summer weight winter

Weights you can have travel as much as It's sort of like uh you know dress wear With velvets and things like that is Very much what we do as well You know it's extraordinary for me the The closest equivalent I could draw from My own world would be if someone walked Into my store and said I want exactly This cigar the flavor Profile how long they want to smoke it The size the shape the color yeah which Of course we can't do in the cigar world But you can do it in this world in this World yeah extraordinary yeah I must Admit I think I I'm getting to know Cigars but I think that the the time Frame you have I mean how you adjust Your your hour to an hour and a half to 20 minutes just with once again having The knowledge to know that and the Tastes and of it must be something You've learned in your generation a Little bit of practice Yeah Well that depends well there's a certain Cachet and a certain provenance to of Course a Cuban cigar right I mean There's great cigars made all over the World but there's just something special About a great Cuban and this is of Course David off of London pure mayors Of the best in the world but the same is Really true from Savile Row right where You know you can find great suits from a Lot of people but you know there's just

A sense of having arrived you know if You're able to have you know one of the Heritage firms doing pure bespoke you Know make something for you and you know To be able to walk into a place like Henry pool and to see the books with Winston Churchill you know really speaks To just the magnitude Of what this is and how it is so much Greater than any one person one Experience and that to me is the romance Of London yeah very much it's like a Little Club here you know you get to see People and see customers that you know Who've been here for even Generations Just seeing the customer before now Three generations amazing um you know Loves clothes grew up with learning to His father's clothes all the coming from A young age to see his father being Fitted here and eventually when he was About 25 he had his first suit here and Then now he's established he's you know Doing very successful and still enjoys Coming here to order so this is a Generational thing we see in customers And there a lot of his friends are also Customers as well so they come over here They obviously go to some fine dining They go and see the shop shoemakers and Obviously that's part of it and probably We'll come and see you as well I'm sure Well and that's another really Interesting aspect of the bespoke

Experience I find similar to Cigars is Ultimately a cigar is kind of a Commitment to time to being shared and Enjoyed with other people and the people With whom you share that inevitably Makes it an even greater experience and I think one of the great joys of the Bespoke process of course is the fact That it is a process you can develop a Relationship with you know your cutter Someone Like You Simon I mean three Generations between the example you just Gave and your family is amazing but also Amongst friends like to be able to bring A friend along with you to kind of enjoy That experience right to kind of throw Ideas back and forth I think also Elevates that and creates uh you know a Better product at the end of the day It's a overwhelming sort of trust that You feel hopefully when you come here That the direction you're going to be Steered on is a journey to create Something for you that really sets a Statement that is not going to be Ostentatious to be out there with but It's going to be very much welcoming and It takes takes somebody to make a Comment on how well it fits or how Comfortable it is for you that we know Then our journey and our product is done And that's the beauty of it is that you Know when we hear that you know it's a Big tick for us and that's what brings

People back is that the reassurance that They feel at home they get very close to Their Cutters because you will do it's Like a doctor a dentist you get to know He gets to know you and going forward You will meet your co-maker you will Meet your trouser maker and your Waistcoat maker because they're all here This is what's been special with again It's pure side yeah that we bring this Element of Henry pool so another Gentleman after Winston Churchill again The same sort of you know dilemmas and Periods of time was of course the the Division between Pakistan and India and Two great fabulous customers here was Neru and indeed Mohammed al-jinna Ali Jinnah and Ali Jenna really was a very Very elegant person very Square shoulder Tall also enjoyed cigars yes and there Is his entry here so this is again Featured here 19 05 he came to us here and enjoyed very Much the sort of clothes from Henry Paul But as you can see in the photograph Here and very much enjoy cigars so I Can't say he would have been with you in Your lovely address in James's but here He is there's two great people at Henry Pool certainly spiritually yeah I'm very Very touched beautiful well these people You know I think really you know they Are uh you know their Echoes you know Can be still heard today Winston

Churchill and again one of the things I Love so much about London is how you Know there's just so much intersection Between you know these different crafts Uh I mean tailoring shirt making Shoemaking Cigars and all these fine kind of Accoutrement and of course you know Henry pool is at the top of that yeah Well as I say it's all one area which is Lovely so we got the street of men's Tailoring here and women's as well then Also we have now St James's we have German street so it really is one little Ecliptic mix of menswear lifestyle all In one area which is magical amazing I Mean the suits are incredible you know I Have to confess it's one of my dreams to To one day own a trooper spoke suit Really yeah yeah well uh it's funny you Should mention this I mean on one of our Prior videos uh you know you kind of Expressed you know this similar Sentiment of one day maybe you know uh Having me help guide you through that Process in the same way that you have so Generously kind of guided me through the Process of really discovering you know The beauty of cigars and so I took the Liberty and I reached out to Simon In those places so on that note I think The best thing is really Eddie is you Know today we start your journey into What we call Pure bespoke yeah

Come on Yeah I'm not sure I'm ready for this Well as I say my first journey in cigar Was a judge down in New Orleans and this Is about 2002 we went off to do Heavies And we had our my pretty much my first Cigar with the bourbon it was magical so I'm hoping today we go through the style We go through the fabrics and we'll go Through the measuring and it'll be your First experience of Henry pool yeah Once in my life Well it would be such an honor to be Able to share this you know with a great Friend and again you've been so generous And all the cigars and everything you've Shared with me and your time and your Friendship and uh you know so to be able To kind of offer you something uh you Know that is as special to me as cigars Is to you and for both of us you know it Would be an honor and I think it would Be fun also you know of course for the Channel to be able to kind of you know Document this process of how someone Goes through this bespoke journey you Know completely from scratch you know For the first time I cannot think of two More wonderful people for that Experience for me so yeah it's like that Virgin puff you should see his video on How to light a cigar you know Um you know there's something to that First experience so no I'm happy to do

It happy to do it happy to have you on Board join join the uh in a mix of Customers we have here which is very Special and as I say your whole Experience of working with the team Behind your hopefully you'll enjoy the Experience for a long time I I hope I Will have more than one entry I will Aspire to that as well and I hope my Children and perhaps my grandchildren Will also find their way into your Wonderful books and make sure Elvis you Know try to keep him you know similar in Size perhaps if you do track suits yeah That's right Yeah so I took the liberty I mean Simon And I kind of discussed right and you Know we're Literally springing this on you right Here so you'll have to of course you can Go home and think about it but um There's nothing to think about I was Thinking that you know we were talking That you know if one were to have their First bespoke suit made which this is For you of kind of where you would begin Uh and I think especially at a house Like pool uh with you know just the Prestige of the piece and of course the Durability and longevity that you get From a bespoke product Um Is to start somewhere that is classic That has the most amount of Versatility

And therefore you know if it's the only Bespoke suit that you know you ever end Up commissioning will be something that You'll get the most use out of I totally Agree I think I think for me Um you know there's a classic sort of Five suits you have from whether you Have sort of pin heads uh bird size in Fact Kirby were both Bird's eyes today That's right yeah flannel bird's eye and A Worcester bird's eye so this is the Same design with the two different Finishes but it just shows you the mix We can have in here you're wearing a Beautiful Um Prince of Wales check with over check You know this is a sort of something Which we could do and there's also other Designs um with with stripes but I think You know the plane or some description With a nice texture to it maybe 11 ounce Which is pretty much an all year round Weight here to start with it gives you The durability it gives you the lifespan Certainly from 10 to 15 years depending How you wear it even 20 30 years Depending what it is but that's Typically what we look for in the first Suit and then as we construct it we can Go through the style and how you want it But something classic Timeless and you Know something you'll feel you know Comfortable and reassured that you know You're feeling part of a balanced uh

Suit that really Henry Paul has had for I don't know over 200 years to all the Customers incredible yeah well can you Pull some books let's pull some books I Am in your hands how do you so to speak This is where the fun begins now yeah so Let's go and choose some books so again We're going to areas of the world over Areas of the UK so in behind me here is About sort of 6 000 Fabrics all from Parts of the UK so we start off from Obviously Islands such as you know Harris shetlands moving on to the Highlands of Scotland the lowlands and Scotland's moving down to the West Country for the lovely listed Tweeds or Western wolves and then moving further South we go into the West country for Flannels so I think we're going to go to More the Yorkshire side and we're going To pull some nice wizards and we'll show You some fine worsteds from this region Proper English dude proper English well May I have something is that is that Typically where your clothes is sourced Or International International so I must Say we have obviously a lovely region of Biella which is the Italian cloth yes Also very nice Fabrics too the designs Are Exquisite Um and it's also a lovely richness to it As well like the flannels are very soft But I think the thing is that the Durability of the worsted flannels are

Stronger and also the worst of wolves The fine worst is a long-term you know Structure shall we say it gives you a Little bit of armor one of it so we'll Do that I'll do that yeah and Eddie this Is one of the great Virtues Of bespoke Is the fact that you have access to as You said 6 000 Fabrics right and so you Know the hands of a skilled you know Taylor you know like Simon right you Know who really knows and understands The cloth I mean and when we're talking An incredible library right that you Know one dedicates their life to Understanding you know they're able to Take that knowledge of their cloth and Their understanding of you as a client And blend those together to make Specific recommendations uh that you Know in my experience have always been Much better than anything I could have Come up with myself and may I ask the Cloth you have do you keep an archive or Or a stock of all this cloth to use when Needed or would you go and Source it if A client needs one yes so obviously we Deal with Merchants yeah Holding Bay and they're being basically Warehouses are these bolts and they will Source from different Mills the Different finishes to how they want to Have their collection so the each house Here will have basically a different Tier level of fabric so whether it's a

Super Light Summer weight whether it's a Super light luxury weight these fell Animals or Worcester so of through these Houses here Linens donegals they're all Under these various houses and it's Their collection that we have every six Months the new collections are coming Out and some are staple Fabrics that Exist now for 20 30 years so you know The joy is like a bird's eye like this I Can go back to this house and in 20 Years time this fabric is still being Made so if a repair means done or if Another pair of trousers are made it's a High chance you can get a pair of Trousers so these houses are really like You know sort of the Bible some of them Of fabrics and mustard quality walls and Their technology their patients are Making bolts of cloth is very much a Sort of a Time factor that has shown That keeping one or two Fabrics of a Certain Um you know it's almost like a like a uh Ingredient of How It's Made and Remaining to have it is worked well Because a lot of customers want the Repeat business on those Fabrics so some Are Timeless and really you know stand The test of time some of your yearly Where it's a certain design a sports Jacket that you know it will last for a Year and that's it it was discontinued Another one comes out but we have the

Blessing to see it all here every year So if I translate this into my world This is the the very high quality leaves That are ultimately going to be making The cigar and perhaps you are beginning To in my eyes appear like the master Blender who's pulling them together to Create the extraordinary cigar so that's The knowledge that we have I mean we our Knowledge you know I'm now what 30 years Of knowledge going from Mills I've Worked in Mills I've been in Scotland I've been in the in Yorkshire I've been In the west country you know I can see And difference and feel in this you know Just being there in the smell is just Incredible I'm sure like you know Tobacco is as well they're all different But we've now come to a point where you Know we can narrow it down pretty much Within you know an area where I know That you'll be happy to enjoy and it's a Bit like your cigar you would know that Gentleman wants that long Nativity he Wants that taste he wants that texture And that's the same here yeah So let's uh pull off some ones I'm in Your hands yeah so let's go to I think We go Premiere Crew which is a nice uh Beautiful balanced uh fabric it's 11 Ounce that's a good little one here and I think we'll go to also a little harder Finish Um which is going to be the 10 and 11

Ounce in a harder finish so we can Examine that we've also got some other Ones again West country 11 ounce Blue Ribbon very nice too 10 11 ounce and Then we'll also have a little softer Finish in the 910 So let's bring these to the table so let Me ask when you mention 10 or 11 ounce What is that actually measuring so we're We're talking about the weight on how The suit will feel on you so if I feel Here this one this is very much again About 10 11 ounce but a flannel finish You've got a lovely Mill finish surface To it these ones are very much more the Clear-cut Finish but the hard finish and There's little softer ones here as well That gives you a bit of both yes I'm Wearing you're wearing much the same With a nice clear-cut finish with a Bird's eye and here's my version of it With a more Mill finish final version Now the joy is that you know Kirby's Suit here will hold its press will be Last it will go on a journey it will get Out of the journey it will look Presentable with our suits the flannel Flute suits are a little softer yes so The durability in the crease and the Trousers it won't last as long as the High tent's worsted so the Worcester Wheels we will go for typically is a First five suits in your wardrobe Yeah it would be the worsted and then

You would venture out into you know your Flannels your softer Yarns or 120s the 150s the 180s they are really luxury Yeah but you have to treat them Naturally you can't you know treat them With a sort of you know Jumping On a Plane for 12 hours and expect it to hold Its shape so it's really had the Practicality side we seek with a Customer to see how his lifestyle is Going to be with it But there's a certain durability right And I guess one of the you know one of The parallels would be you know kind of The the strength of the cigars at light Bodied medium body or strong you're Full-bodied right that's what a master Blender is kind of doing the same way That Simon is kind of helping us kind of Find the right fabric you know but with Weight you have durability the heavier Weight it is the stronger and more Durable the cloth is it may not have the Finesse of hand you know that a super 150 or 180 might but it's going to also Ensure that it's a suit that's a Workhorse and can last for 30 years the Other thing that's nice is that the Heavier weight the cloth the more Weight there is to it literally and the More beautifully it drapes which is one Of the characteristics of a pure bespoke Suit is the way it just drapes on the Body there's a beauty and there's an

Elegance and uh you know it's sculpture Right and that you kind of have to give You know the master tailor something to Work with that he can you know that Drapes and holds weight and holds its Crease and so there's the benefit there And then of course in London you know on A day like today where it's quite quite Cold You know the heavier weight cloths Especially for this climate will ensure That it's providing you that warmth that You need over a lighter weight cloth Yeah and I take it they're looking at at You tend to wear three piece as well yes It's it's a recent development in my own Wardrobe um and that's driven by my Father who's always impeccable Incredible yeah man right okay yeah now He's inspired me and as I've aged uh I've uh I find also the extra cushioning Around here helps well for me I think It's great because it gives you that Extra warmth if you need it you can drop It and be as two-piece if you if you Wish it on a warm day and it's just a Nice elegant way that if you take the Jacket off you still feel fully dressed Having actually a waistcoat on so I'm a Big fan of of three piece and that also Gives a chance to not go too heavy with Fabrics so it's not heavy to wear but You have the warmth if you need it so This I think going from around 10 ounces

10 11 gives you that feel weak and gives You a bit of a springtime summer and Fall suit all the way through so that's Why I think rather than hitting the 13 The 14 on the winter weights the eight Nine which is a summer weeks here and Also in the Americas Um this the durability will be less as Well so I think the 11 12 yeah they're 10 to 12. okay it's kind of like the Sweet spot where you've got enough Weight that you're gonna get drape it's Got enough body that's going to offer You the durability it's not so heavy That you couldn't wear it all year if You wanted to right it's not so light That again you couldn't do the same as Well Um And so yeah I think of course it's a Great recommendation so this is the kind Of conversation we'll have when we get Back to Cigars because you'll be saying To me this is this this is that little Rest of it so I'll be learning that Thing too so let's let's have a look so Here we have I'm going to move things Around a bit here so we have Yeah let's move this here there we are So this is obviously uh just four Bunches which gives you that ten nine Nine tenor weight and I'm going to show You a little bit between them here so if We flip a coin here we flip the book

When you'll see a texture here and you If you put your hand there at it you'll Feel that lovely coolness and soft Little softness to it okay that's a 9 10 Ounce one twenties with a little Sprinkle of cashmere and you don't want To go too hip too much on the cashmere Between a sort of like a 10 and one Percent is absolutely fine but the one Twenties gives you that lovely little Softness to it yes it's almost silky Even though I know there's no silver Yeah good comparison so the next one is A dry finish harder wearing but a little Bit coarser to hand this also available In various finishes so again we can move It into a mid gray now fill that dryness You see that texture Yes I know exactly what you mean the Dryness on the fingers you know again I Compare it to Cigars When We Touch the Rapid Leaf of a cigar that's well Humidified versus one that's perhaps a Little drier a little coarser not coarse That's not the right word but less less Moisture in there for sure crispy crispy Yes yes crispy finish so we're going in Between now so the the Blue Ribbon is Very much in between so you've got there The hundreds again but you're getting a Nice a lovely finish that gives you a Workhorse but feels nice so this is a Good house as well to go with where it's Your first suit it's a lovely one to

Work with very popular with us too this This kind of quality they're all popular But it gives you the edge of uh you know Really the you know the first five suits You want to work with in your wardrobe And my understanding when you say 100 It's the lower the count the harder the Finish higher the count softer the yarn More luxurious the fabric is yeah Understood and I can't I mean correct me If I'm wrong but it's a reference to how Many Yarns that you can fit in an inch Of fabrics The lower the count right the thicker The yarn would be yeah and the higher The count the thinner it is you know and That finesse right is what creates that Soft hand but it's also what creates Something that doesn't have the Durability and could be fragile Depending on just how so picks per inch That's a pics and that's basically the Yarn count there that's one of your Yarns there extra and you can see how The Summer's springy and some are not so Springy so the high twist gives you the Actual recovery and the softy arms is Just basically straight returns and not So springy yes luxurious I still find Myself over one by cloth I love it every every year the new Fabrics come out and we were always Excited with some other houses bringing Out some lovely new jacketings or

Suitings and blends you know recently We've had linen so-called wool Blends And jacketings and suitings which are so Good for summer now rather than just a Pure linen which is good now this I Think is the probably the Pinnacle Point Where it comes down to the all-rounder I Think the premier crew for me has always Been a great fabric you've got a lovely Again 100s with a little sprinkle of Cashmere it gives you a good range to Play with you've got a lovely array of Fabrics where you've got not only a Clear cut finish but you also got Mill Finishes so Mill finishes this is a Little bit like this as well So again through learning through here Your popular ones we've got little Classics of very discreet Prince of Wales checks in Grays you got them in Blues And then we move on to the pick and Picks we spoke about those is your Classic uh suits to wear for every Occasion you can mix up with Bowl shirts Bowl ties there's no other checks There's no colorways or design in it so After doing the Prince of Wales they're Picking their picks you then got on to The what we call the window checks now These are very much a bolder finish very Quite you know spot your suit the joy is That I would build your wardrobe first Before having something like this this

Is very much a sort of wearing that suit Again it's that kind of feel so you want To keep it neutral Source finish and Then we move into very much the bird Size which we're both wearing today Which you can get in Blue and Gray and Here's a blue one again standard Beautiful suits Timeless to have and Then we move into things like Herringbones which are lovely finishes The dressing and the evening and daytime And you can enjoy many of those as well So the thought process really is the Colorways we go for typically to start With is Grays and blues Um your thoughts Eddie what so well Like someone entering my cigar shop Saying what do you recommend I Truthfully don't know where to begin and I would defer very much to Kirby any Suggestions you might have for for the Right first yeah I mean I think back to Kind of what Simon was saying I mean I Would I mean my goal for this if it were Me would be something as classic and as Versatile as possible and inevitably That's going to be your Navy's and your Grays right and within that there's some Choices in terms of how dark how light I Think if you get too far on either side Like you narrow the versatility so That's what I would say is I mean you Know between gray and navy as they're One kind of color you find yourself

Pulled to I like both but I get drawn to Gray and That's happened I think as my hair has Progressed in its greatness it may not Last forever when I lose my hair but This is the wisdom has pulled you Towards the Grays it comes slightly Towards gray if you think that's a a Good thing crazy great color yeah the Joy with gray is you can mix it up into A dressy black shoe you can dress it Down with a brown shoe yeah so you get Your versatility of the look you want to Give you know we'd like you're wearing Today with a blue uh shirt you can make Way more a little bit more relaxed you Can dress it with a white shirt make it More impact for the for the evening so Let's look at some Grays um we've got Bird's eyes as we're both wearing we're Under weddings funerals I mean like Again Grace probably even would you say Would you say Simon that is a touch more Versatile than even Navy I think so I Think gray would be I think also if you Go into the long longevity of a suit I Think if we maybe you know Stripes gray Stripes is more businessy for me I Wouldn't think we're going to be doing That you're very much involving Customers rounds you've been enjoying The time but stripes are good but as I Say they're quite quite a strong impact For people when I visit the bank manager

Perhaps we all have to do that at some Point so yeah that's when you go out There so the other version is like a Herringbone and I think that's that's Always quite nice you get a herringbone What is the herringbone finish well That's that's basically it's a strength Of a herringbone gives a fishbone effect So it goes up and down with a with a I'm Just trying to find one here so yeah And what I like about herringbone is That there we go it gives you a little Bit of visual texture right so over and Above a solid so at a distance something Like this will appear as a solid suit But whenever you come up close you've Got visual texture and and Coincidentally my first bespoke suit was A dark gray Kind of charcoal herringbone and I have To say I got so much use out of that so Oh I mean this is with that question Kind of where I would steer you and then Here you've got a choice you know dark Charcoal Or kind of a proper mid Gray And I think you know Eddie as I look to You you know you're in the shop I mean It's It's a uh I mean it's a Hospitality you Know you know role that you're in Welcoming people in and guiding them Through I don't think you need something Quite as formal as a dark charcoal which

If you were in the office right and Going out to formal dinners I'd say you Know go with the dark charcoal yes and Then with your you know lighter kind of You know complexion I think that this Mid gray you know would be a fantastic Consideration oh my eyes are very much Drawn to that Yeah now that to me also it is a very Good color weight We normally would just put it on on the Actual helmet so that gives you a bit of A feel for it but it is also important To get the color shade of your skin tone And the rest of it as well but that Gives you a very neutral feel to it so It gives you a day and evening it gives You a a very not so empowering suit but A very much welcoming suit yeah and That's a neutral thing about it yeah it Looks beautiful I I've absolutely fallen In love with this yeah there's a subtle Elegance to this and again you know and It's not a very bold or strong Herringbone because there's also Different width of their herringbone you Can have so the wider it is the stronger And Bolder it's going to be this is Again this is an incredibly elegant it's Something I could see on you it's Something that I'd see your father Wearing oh yes yes I think he's got a Brown herringbone now I understand what It is

This would be a wool and a little bit of Cashmere so yes a little sprinkler but Sprinkle of cashmere yeah a little bit Sprinkles you know you don't need too Much cashmere yeah but it is a nice Little touch there you can feel again The coolness of this yeah but unlike the Hard dry finishes it's it is very much a Practical fabric but also feels nice so You want you know at the end of the day You want someone to appreciate the Fabric this is quite a dry finish Compared even to this one absolutely so And compared to this I mean this is a Bit much softer it's still quite dry Yeah yeah but it looks beautiful and I Suspect Mrs sahakyan will appreciate it Yes keep me in her good books I hope That's it she'll have a hard time Keeping her hands off of this let's keep It just her right now Um I love this yeah I love this if you Agree I I would be wholeheartedly happy With that an honored to see a suit like This and do you mind my first fabric it Didn't have that sprinkle of cashmere so This is example you know a real Touch of Magic there and it's one of the things I Love about the you know newer classes They're able to just put a little bit in Yeah it's a small amount but it tells The detail and I think that you know Over the years your knowledge of fabrics Have grown as well so you know how well

That performs well yeah all worlds and What's the weight of this is this is Coming on the 11 ounces 11 ounces yeah That's perfect and would it be a 100 or 100 100 yeah Wonderful great well let's get these Lovely out of the way well you made that So easy yeah well we're not done yet Though yes yes this is where it all Starts so that really is now your your Fabric and and this will now be Acknowledged uh in the book uh and we Don't go down now with the Styles and go Through the details so we have a page For you right here Um great so we've chosen the fabric and The next would be kind of The Styling The Styling so we'll go through the Options now on paper with you on single Breasted three-piece uh you know the Pocketing details button one button two Button three pocket uh slanted straight Uh pleats uh trouser slim pleated Whatever you wish Again I would I would I mean I know We've talked about it already and I Would love to just basically say you Know I'm in your hands yeah okay what do You recommend but why don't you grab uh I'll grab a little grab a sheet and um Because this is where it really gets fun Yes is because you know I mean you can Do anything you want which can be Overwhelming and this is what Simon is

For uh but you know as we get into some Of the details you'll have of course an Opinion and that kind of back and forth Between you and you know uh Taylor like Simon is really kind of would produce is That incredible unique and totally Bespoke product that is how you wanted It but you know deferring a little bit To the tailor because uh you know I find That they add so much oh yeah to the Process So obviously um we spoke about the three Piece I think Eddie that's a great start It's a Timeless piece I think the Balance of it for you is perfect I think We go through the style of it so I think We'll do the single best that we said Wonderful yes and how many buttons would You like now you're wearing three today Do you want to do that again I think so I think it's quite reverse well what do You think well I think it goes Beautifully that we're wearing today Um this is our fat button too in fact This is is this a through button or is It this button too yeah this is it yeah So that would I would normally go for it Too yeah I think it's going to be more Um classically English and it gives you Something without wearing the waistcoat It makes more day in the daytime sort of Suits so I think we'll do two wonderful Okay Now we speak about the uh lapel because

Obviously you can have what's called a Peak lapel like I'm wearing today or Indeed a notch lapel and Kirby has a Notch to pal I have a Pizza Pal so That's your thought on that I I don't Have a strong view on that I would very Much like to to really be in what you Think best represents Henry Poole I Think a Timeless piece would probably be The notch lapel I think this is a very Much a now factor and it has been for Around 12 15 years but however a good Suit for 30 years should be what do you Think yeah I think you know most Traditionally National Powers what one Would associate with a single-breasted Jacket You'd never have to worry about it Coming in and out of favor and again There's just a balanced Elegance to Nash Lapel You know that you know soft yes I would Go with the notch too not too good okay Now there's some things which are quite Natural to suits of course the outbreast Pocket we definitely want to have that Again you guys have your lovely Boutonniere with us so we have a little Flower loop at the back of our lapels as Well so this was a really for your stem Of your flower that used to be in but a Lot of people make use of it to put Loop Things on too yes as well so that's Another thing please

Um the vents the trails uh the actual Pocketing and details on the side you Can have actually slanted Pockets Straight Pockets this is another big Question really I think you know I Certainly would probably maybe go Slanted for for being a London suit Being a Henry pool suit I don't know Your thoughts on that Yeah I mean I don't have a strong Opinion I mean I I think you know if I Were in Eddie's position I would want Something that is kind of iconically Pool and so if you think the slant Pocket is something that does that then I would go with it very much perfect It's also one of those bespoke details You don't see very often on made to Measure suits or off the rack stuff Um of course things like four button Cuffs we typically could do all working Buttons I noticed you'd have a military Style here yes so we could do that but I Think keeping it more traditional uh Would be the full you know working Buttons I I very much agree yeah Paul Has always done uh two hole buttons as Well not four hole and natural horn Buttons as well they're naturally horn So they actually are a start for the Dull start and the more you use them Actually the Shine Comes together so It's quite a nice feature too so that's Again four there again big question

Really would be the vent to the back I Definitely think two vents yeah exactly Quintessentially English yeah And just more elegant whenever you sit Down and kind of throw the bins back we Had a gentleman from Detroit and the car Industry and he always said double Exhaust or single exhaust and that's how He put his vents you know so I'm gonna Do this one double exhaust so you know That's how he how he did it but it's Quite a character now the Interiors is The fun part because that's something For you as well so I certainly recommend Two at the top here one two you carrier Pen I do yes uh so I carry a pen I also Have a special request if it can be Accommodated Oh which is somewhere to put a cigar or Two perhaps a little special pocket are You able to do well I mean that's the Beauty of bespoke we carry many things You can imagine we had musicians with Two harmonicas once that stepped Harmonically the other side here but Typically for our dinner suits yeah a Lot of the time we do lovely uh we're Fame for making a tuxedo of course Inventing the tuxedo with everybody Henry pools but that's another thing Here but we actually generate a what we Call the the cigar pocket for you and a Friend yeah and it's really is a longer Pocket at the bottom here divided with a

Divider in it for two tubes so one for Yourself and one fuel yeah I would love That So this is a Davidoff number two size Tube uh it might be slightly Um this weekend so would you want Something Um specifically for like a number two Because they can also change the width To ensure that it's just perfectly Accommodates this or I think a little Bit more accommodation in case either I Don't have the number two at hand or Perhaps my my taste changes uh over time Okay a little bit more size perhaps but Not much more yeah we can do that we can Accommodate the width with a divider With various tubes the width obviously Tends to be a maximum about eight inches But we can do it yeah how deep would you Want them would you want them to go all The way and disappear into the pocket no I think we need to have a little bit of A stand up maybe just showing off a Little bit of a 3 8 maybe just to give You a little something something like That but maybe a little bit more I think We might really want the sort of three Eighths I think we can get that there And if it's a short cigar perhaps Something that would allow me to slip my Fingers in and pull it out if it's water Yeah just a little bit of give there Okay yeah right and these are all the

Details right I mean you could to give The the precise dimensions of that Pocket it's one of the things on my Jackets that I like is I keep a phone Here and so if the pocket is cut too Wide the phone falls over so having it Cut narrow enough so that the phone kind Of stands upright and it's not so deep That I'm having to like dig into my Jacket pocket in order to fish it out Right so these are kind of all the small Things that you know maybe over the Years with ready to wear I know you Right that can all be incorporated into A garment and repeated it so you know at The end of the day a lot of Gents like Repeat the same thing their natural Movements would be you know business Cards cell phone wallet it's all that Everyday system you know so anything you Carry you know Cutters maybe yeah so so I I tend to use the this little side Pockets here I don't know what you call Them I've got a cutter here I One suit I believe which has on both Sides of your pockets because I Sometimes use it for business cards as Well that's it okay so let's do one side For your uh we'll do for the tubes too Yeah yeah and on the other side we'll do For your Cutters and we'll keep it that Way and then you always would go to the Same position and that will repeat

Itself on the orders in the future so I Mean I thought or a question so I with My telephone I tend to if when I put in My breast pocket I tend to put it on my Right side because of some I don't know Why my wife was worried there would be Some interaction with my heart of the Electromagnetic no I don't think it's True but that's become a habit it tends To go on the right side is there a way To make that work well that's the Question then because what what's really Important wearing suits is to try and Balance up either side so don't carry Wallet's phones on one side you really Want to carry them one at one side the Phone on the other side so that's how I Personally would keep wallet this time Phone this time pleased to report I Never carry a wallet You sound like they're all fan family Just a few cards and uh and some paper Money but never in a wallet so I find it Too bulky well then I think you know I Don't personally I think maybe we have The uh obviously on this side would be Your phone is that right and on this Side we should really maybe put the Tubes on this side then so we balance Out with the code so I think if we put The tubes on the left side but do you Think the cutter would be more would be Heavier yes on this side yeah yeah okay Yeah yeah the other benefit of carrying

The pocket here is you can put a pocket Square on the other jam and that kind of That's it okay let's do that then so We'll do that so the Linings will show You some Linings in the fitting room Um which is lovely way too because Really with the Linings tell us a lot About the suits you can tell all about The Interiors you don't have to go too Crazy just keep it a little calm for the First suit which I think is the best Thing so we can do that in the fitting Room and then with the waistcoats it's Fairly standard we obviously you love The idea of your little lapel here this Is very very nice and then I think that I noticed you've got button four here a Button button six rather and we might Give you actually brace trials a little Bit higher we can actually have the five Plus one which is very traditional a Nice little thing yes and then I notice You obviously got the team watch here so You must be wearing a chain watch Eventually well we'll give you that as Well so if we put that down as uh very Much a classic sort of waistcoat four But four four Pockets with a Wither Lapel does that sound good and then the Brace trouser gives that lovely height Elevates and obviously gives you a Lovely shape to work with as well very Comfortable wonderful is that good that Sounds perfect lovely do you wear braces

Yes yeah so we could cut them for braces And then would you do pleats because These don't seem to be pleated are they I'm not a fan of pleats I think I think You know you're not a fan of cleats I'm Not a fan of pleats in terms of you know Basically Eddie likes a Slimmer look Certainly the cuff here I think we can Go a little bit this is a little bit Slightly slimmered for my liking I would Go a little bit wider okay and then just Keep it nice and narrow there's clean no Pleats no pleats yeah Right I think my wife likes that as well I think you'll yes it would surprise a Lot of women like to have a Slimmer look These days so we go with that yes I think we should do that's up to you Eddie we can do cuffs on um always Taking my what off you mean I would do Straight I I wouldn't normally do a turn Up I think for for these uh yeah lovely Perfect great I'll go that down so let's Come through and we'll go for the Measure yeah wonderful after you ready We're gonna go right down there on the Left side yeah thank you Foreign Foreign Measurements there that go into Measuring the body and frankly now it Gets basically cut into your own Personal pattern the class will be Arriving we'll be cutting it and then

Giving it to the code makers to start Your coat your trouser and your Waistcoats so in about sort of a few Weeks time you need a little bit of time You'll be back here for your first Fitting yeah I am in no hurry I'm Entirely in your hands thank you for the Honor it's like having a cigar you've Got to take George Favorite for sure and you have the of Course the benefit of being in London You could pop in and see the progress Absolutely yeah well thank you very much Simon what an honor and pleasure for me Simon hey thank you so much We're in great hands and uh it's so Exciting to be able to welcome you know Eddie of course into the fraternity of Pool clients it will be similar to these Books but a little bit more computerized Oh