Unboxing My First Bespoke Shirt From Budd Shirtmakers | Kirby Allison

Hi I'm Kirby Allison and in today's Video I'm excited to unbox my very first Bespoke shirt from bud shirtmaker [Music] So very exciting this culminates a Multi-part series that we have been Filming following the creation of my Very first bespoke shirt from Bud shirt Maker in London of course the iconic Shirt making firm located in the Piccadilly arcade now we have filmed the Measurements the pattern drafting the Factory and Andover on how they actually Make shirts the first fitting and then This is finally that first shirt that's Being delivered so I'm very excited to Open this up and see what bud has been Able to create for me so that's one of My favorite days here at Kirby Allison Is the opportunity to open up something New And let's see what Bud's got for me All right so there we go Bud shirt maker Or just bud I suppose as they're called Now Now as Darren was explaining in their Bespoke process uh you have your Measurements taken they will make you a Trial shirt we filmed that process in London of them just tweaking and Checking all the measurements once Darren is happy with that they take it To the first shirt now the first shirt Is really the true trial shirt if you

Will because the bespoke process is an Evolution this is meant to be laundered For you to wear it and really determine Whether or not there are any Opportunities to improve the fit even More than it already is so here is that First shirt again wrapped in beautiful Tissue paper with the bud uh stick right There let's open this up and see what This looks like Foreign [Music] There we go first shirt this is made in The iconic Bud stripe again it's a Combination of a blue stripe with a Little bit of Jack card that gives this A fabric a really rich visual texture Bespoke collar mother of pearl buttons You can see right here my initials sewn Inside Hallmark of bespoke shirt And then that 980 corresponds to my Customer number and the pattern so this Again designates uh which pattern was Used to make this shirt and let's open It up and take a look at this All right oh boy look at that So beautiful monogram right here I'm Jumping out right there I mean I went For a slightly stronger less settled Than my standard monogram really Showcasing the beautiful handwork that Bud executes with all their monogramming Again 100 done by hand there's one lady That they have doing this work and she

Does an absolutely exceptional job this Model again is a classic kind of British Dress shirt there were some details of This that are different than my bespoke Shirts that I had made from Charvet that Are really traditional for a bud shirt That I wanted to retain One being this front placket that goes All the way down right the bud collar Again very um very iconic to Bud this is A bespoke collar so although it has that Classic kind of cutaway Bud shape Darren Raised it a little bit in the front Heightened the back of the collar so Again it is not an off the shelf collar It is totally bespoke I had it made with A two button Barrel cuffs again with a Rounded Edge And this is again a beautifully executed Shirt exactly what you would expect from A shirt maker like a bud and I have to Say I was very excited to finally be Able to try my hand at having a shirt Made bespoke by Bud of all of the British based shirt makers Bud my Opinion is the most iconic again based There on or in the Piccadilly arcade a Hundred percent of all their bespoke Work is done on site their bespoke Pattern drafting they're cutting if You're in London of course your Measurements and the fittings they have A factory in Andover with a very small Team of dedicated seamstress we filmed

That factory tour you can see exactly How they make a shirt from start to Finish 100 of their work is done there Including the work done with their Bespoke shirts the construction process Of the bespoke shirt a relative to a Made to measure or they're off the rack Shirts is relatively the same with the Exception of of course the buttons being Sewn on by hand you can see that right Here this is a sewn on hand by hand a Very beautiful and then the hand Monogramming but other than that I mean The quality is the same and not to say That the quality of the bespoke shirts Is any less but really to say that the Quality of all their shirts is Exceptional whether or not it's bespoke Made to measure or off the rack of Course what you're getting with the Bespoke process is that bespoke pattern 100 individualized to you your body Its uniquenesses like my dropped Shoulders and that's fact I stoop a Little bit and then also your Preferences what type of collarband or Collar you want your cuffs how much room You like in the body of the shirt All those characteristics are taken into Account in the bespoke process but I Have to say this looks beautiful and you Know we've learned not to try on Anything without first sending it to the Dry cleaners so I'm going to send this

To Ray fabricare which is my dry cleaner Of choice located in Scottsdale Arizona I know it sounds crazy mailing my dry Cleaning to Arizona but they're the best Dry cleaners here in the United States And their work is just absolutely Exceptional and when it comes to a shirt Like this the hand pressing is the best Of any dry cleaners that I've ever seen By a mile and so I'm going to send this To them so that we really can showcase Just how beautiful this shirt is so hold Fast for a few seconds while we send This off to be dry cleaned and then once It comes back we're going to try this on For you in this video So here we are back in the studio and I've got this Bud shirt maker my first Bespoke a shirt from Bud back from Ray Fabricare of course anytime you receive A new shirt you really need to launder It a few times in order for it to shrink I mean all fabric shrinks and so uh the Shirt makers will work in certain kind Of allowances into the fabric to account For that and so you know as we've Learned here on the channel we don't Want to shortchange any of the people With whom we're filming by just taking Something right out of the box and Trying it on really to see how something Looks it needs to be sent to the dry Cleaners it needs to be pressed in order To fully appreciate all of the work that

Has gone into the creation of a bespoke Product so here we are we've got this Shirt from Rave fabric care of course Stew and Ray fabricator does an Absolutely fantastic job and I've always Said on this channel that the lifetime Of Any Garment can be measured and how Many times it's been sent to the dry Cleaners your average local dry cleaners Puts are just a tremendous amount of Strain on a garment it'll shrink by too Much it'll wear too quickly they'll Press the life out of it they'll break Buttons Ray fabric here really they're Not cheap right it's a premium service But they take the time to really do Everything properly it's the only place That I would send a bespoke suit to be Dry cleaned and pressed with full Confidence that it's coming back pressed Just as well as if it had left the Tailor so anyway look them up Ray fabric Here Scottdale Arizona So let's open this up Gotta be very careful I have cut into a Shirt before So here we go the magic of Rave I mean Again whenever it comes to their Packaging is amazing so that is just a Little spacer And here we have this beautiful bespoke Shirt right now there's no question a Little bit Overkill whenever it comes to How Rave packages their shirts I mean

It's absolutely beautifully folded and I'll show you what it looks like in a Little bit but all of the shirts come in What is basically an air pillow right And what this does is it prevents the Shirts from really being compressed During shipment right you can see me Pressing down on this so that they don't Wrinkle and it's really incredible that They're able to do this so Um Foreign There we go it's beautiful so Again nice little tissue pillow some Plastic to keep the collar up And Folded in tissue and so you can see this Has actually been in the Box Sitting in my office waiting to film This for a while I mean it's got some Soft creasing where the shirt's been Folded but to be completely honest once This shirt has an opportunity to hang a Little bit you know those creases will Fall right out so Um and then the other thing with Rave is All that the pressing is done by hand so Whenever you have an unfused collar or Something with a floating inner lining And the inner lining is a piece of Fabric that gives the collar its Structure and stiffness the body that You need in a proper collar for it to Hold its shape

You can fuse it where that interlining Is glued To the fabric which you don't like or You don't want it creates a really stiff Almost cardboard like texture or you can Have a floating inner lining and this is What you really find most often in Bespoke shirts where it's basically just Sewn in there's no glue and so this top Layer of fabric floats from the inner Lining and then to the back now what's Important is that it's pressed well Because if you press it you know without Care you can push the fabric and create A crease right there and it just doesn't Look clean so the pressing matters so Here we go beautiful shirt we spoke a Little bit about the details earlier but Again you can see it all in its full Glory I mean the beautiful monogram Right here the placket the hand sewn Buttons absolutely beautiful shirt it's Got my pattern number Or order number it's got my initial sewn In right there so beautiful shirt and I Think actually I think it's going to go Really beautifully with this suit that I'm wearing from Eric Jensen's let's see How it looks on And here I am in this beautiful bespoke Bud shirt let me know what you think Um we'll talk through a little bit but Allow you guys to see it I'll throw the Tie up I mean I think it fits really

Nicely in the body it's got this uh you Know relatively large front placket is Again just kind of a Hallmark of British Shirt making right Um might be something the future that I Probably would remove I prefer a Slightly cleaner aesthetic but with this First shirt I really wanted to go with As much as possible a Bud's house Aesthetic or house style the sleeves are Great again you'll remember in the last Fitting I felt that there was a little Too much in the sleeves and Darren was Really able to trim that out again nice High arms hole I mean this you know just Precision right here really makes a Shirt so much more comfortable I mean I Find one of the most uncomfortable Things about standard off the rack Shirts is just all the extra fabric you Have just gets in the way and so with The bespoke shirt which you really want To see is all of those all of that Excess really trimmed down to you know Reasonable tolerances you don't want it Too tight you know then if you gain you Know a few pounds over Thanksgiving you Know your shirt's pulling like you don't Want that you don't want you know the Sleeves so tight that you're not Comfortable and you can't bend your Elbows but I'd say that this is Exceptionally comfortable especially Through here it's really I have to say

Very comfortable uh the sleeve length is Perfect uh the cuff and Barrel size Again is perfect this has got just Enough room in there where it is able to Kind of hold its position It's not going to fall down in the hand Again if the circumference of the cuff Is too large Regardless of the sleeve length and you Want a little bit of extra room in the Sleeves you'll find it sliding down the Hand it's just one of those things Throughout the day I kind of myself I Find myself constantly you know becoming A little self-conscious great buttons Right and then just look at the back Right I think it fits you know really Beautifully and then just right here Again you know this is again one of Those Hallmarks of a great bespoke shirt There's just not excess here right and I'll take the braces down these of Course are sovereign grade braces I did Throw on a different tie that I think Works well with this but if you look Just right through here you know with The collar and just the front kind of Body it just has a nice drape it's Smooth there's not a lot of pulling There's not a lot of wrinkling and Whenever I put the braces on you know it Always cause a little bit of wrinkling That's pretty common but you know worn Without braces you can see that this

Shirt is incredibly smooth and fits well One of the other things you'll notice Again is the bespoke collar a nice Cutaway not too wide long points Interesting for me is a little bit of a Wider tie Gap right here collar Gap so Take a look at that let me know kind of What you think in the video And I think that this Tie The Sovereign grade tie of course Not beautifully I just did this and Let's throw on a jacket and see what it Looks like with the jacket [Music] So there we are this is my bespoke suit From Eric Jensen Satoria gallo uh and Again this shirt and this particular Suit with this Gourmet fabric I think Works absolutely beautifully the tie Everything I think it really is going on Right here just brilliantly what I like About this Gourmet fabric is it's you Know we've spoken a lot about this it's Like a green blue gray I mean what color Is it it's kind of Calico depends how You're accessorizing it this shirt Really pulls out the blue in this Particular fabric it's a beautiful Subtle Bud Stripe Right it has that Small little Jacquard kind of weave in There that gives it that visual texture The sleeves are perfect and I think that You know again the collar height You know coming up the top

Um Is really perfect so there we have it my First bespoke shirt from bud Beautiful monogram I couldn't be any Happier and I must say I look forward to Seeing uh the gentleman at Bud to place An order for some more shirts I have to Say that um I'm really satisfied with The shirt you'll have to let me know What you think in the comments section Below but I'd have to say that I think This is a real Testament to the bespoke Process it does require a little bit of Investment of time for your bespoke Measurements for a first maybe even a Second fitting but that time and energy Is highly rewarded in a product like This and of course the other beautiful Thing about bespoke shirts is that once You nail your pattern you don't need any Additional fittings they can go straight To finish and so that makes it so that Whenever you need to place an order for New shirts they go straight through you Get them in a few months and every Single shirt fits exactly the same Exactly how you like it and it's that Reliability that consistency that I Think is one of the defining virtues of Bespoke shirts Let me know what you think in the Comments section below of course if this Is your first time watching the channel Make sure you go check out our other

Videos with Bud shirtmakers we have a Video of Darren taking my bespoke Measurements we have a video of Darren Drafting this pattern by hand and then We also have an incredible factory tour Where we went to the bud shirt makers Workshop in Andover outside of London And filmed the entire process of them Making a bespoke shirt from start to Finish it's a great video and really Will give tremendous insight into that Bespoke process also if you haven't Visited kirbyallison.com take a moment And do so of course it's the best way to Support the content that we film here on This channel and there you'll find the Largest collection of luxury Garment Care and luxury shoe care accessories in The world as well as other great Clothing accessories for the Well-dressed I like this beautiful Sovereign great tie I'm wearing pocket Squares braces socks and so much more we Really have an absolutely incredible Catalog of clothing accessories so make Sure you go online and visit Kirby Allison.com Of course I'm Kirby Allison and I love To help the well-dressed acquire and Care for their wardrobes while exploring The world of quality craftsmanship and Tradition thanks for watching [Music]